Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey my next car is goin to be a skyline once ive sold my 180, ive heard some skylines with a really nice notes to there exhuasts (deep roar) etc and was wondering how to get this?. does it matter on size of exhaust? 3 inch or 3.5 inch, muffler, custom or jap brand or is it somethin else.

cheers :D

hey my next car is goin to be a skyline once ive sold my 180, ive heard some skylines with a really nice notes to there exhuasts (deep roar) etc and was wondering how to get this?. does it matter on size of exhaust? 3 inch or 3.5 inch, muffler, custom or jap brand or is it somethin else.

cheers  :D

i would stay 2.5" with the pipe. it is not necessarily only the pipe diameter that creates what it is you are looking for: it is more in how the components of the exhaust system are set up. for one, you may want to try a resonator. this is an in-line component that will keep the phatter exhaust pipe from sounding tinny. also, the choice of cat will affect the sound, as will the initial pipes leading off the engine (exhaust manifold). you can get a high-flow manifold, header, and that will dramatically change the sound quality. next is the muffler itself. the larger the bore, the deeper the sound; the smaller the bore, typically, the higher the note. there is no "right" exhaust system or "wrong" exhaust system. it depends on how much money you want to sink into it, and what is available to you. and it depends upon the number of cars you personally research and listen to. people tend to like greddy; i have magnaflow. check out random technologies cat.

i find that skylines in general with jap exhausts (3" normally)have a very distinct note to them much like a rexy. u can tell its a skyline even before u see it. i guess the quality of the note also depends on the material used and wall thickness?? my mate has a custom stainless turbo back sys on his 180 and it sounds very hollow and tingy. does ur 180 sound simliar??

mild hpc copated steel piping delivers the best sounding exhaust note, even better with an external w/g. stainless steel gives a slight drony-tinny noise and titaniun is only a louder version of s/s

i would stay 2.5" with the pipe. it is not necessarily only the pipe diameter that creates what it is you are looking for: it is more in how the components of the exhaust system are set up. for one, you may want to try a resonator. this is an in-line component that will keep the phatter exhaust pipe from sounding tinny. also, the choice of cat will affect the sound, as will the initial pipes leading off the engine (exhaust manifold). you can get a high-flow manifold, header, and that will dramatically change the sound quality. next is the muffler itself. the larger the bore, the deeper the sound; the smaller the bore, typically, the higher the note. there is no "right" exhaust system or "wrong" exhaust system. it depends on how much money you want to sink into it, and what is available to you. and it depends upon the number of cars you personally research and listen to. people tend to like greddy; i have magnaflow. check out random technologies cat.

Please pay no heed to this post.

2.5" exhaust... WTF? Maybe for a Naturally aspirated car like a Maxima, but turbocharged cars need as little backpressure as possible.

The bigger the better.

yeh i have a 3 inch exhaust from the turbo on my 180 with hi-flow cat and resonator and it sounds pretty mean, yeah bonze what the **** are you on about? are you a serious member on this board?, also would there be any difference if the external wastegate vented back into the exhaust sound any different or just vent it to atmosphere? also guys ive been a very long member on nissansilvia.com and know alot of shit about cars so ill just let you's know im not a newb to this.

cheers.

oh yeah ive seen blast (brand) mufflers on alot of skylines and they sound deep as all shit.

and can you guys check out this site and watch the short clips from uniques skyline, 1mb or less of there exhaust that sounds ****ing crazy

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/performance.htm

If you want a nice sounding exhaust make sure you have a muffler and a resonator. Removing the resonator will or should :D create a crackly sound. That is the basis with V8's not to sure if it applies to the Skyline but I see no reason why it shouldn't.

I've got a custom aussy built s/steel exhaust that set me back $1700. Its a 3" from the turbo, 7litre high flow 3" cat, s/steel large hot dog looking resonator in the middle and a large rear s/steel polished rear muffler with a 3" s/steel tip to keep things looking stock.

It doesn't drone in the car but is louder than most jap exhaust skylines. It has more of an Straight Aussy 6 grunty type sound. I compared it to sounding similiar when cruising along to my old 250cortina that had a set of extractors & 2.5" exhaust.

I have heard 1 R33 that sounded absolutly awesome. Not sure which exhaust he had but i'd prefer it over the sound of a V8 it was that nice.

It sounded hell grunty with a really deep loud note where you could hear alomost every cyclinder firing not the muffled deep sound. Not to loud where it was annoying though.

I have Trust MX exhaust. Nice sounding exhaust note. Deep grunt when launching then turns into a very sweet rush exhaust note... Not tinny or crackling whatsoever. Its basically come with a resonator and proper size rear muffler with a 4" tip.

The front pipe won't make it louder cos I have it on mine and doesn't make a difference. The only time where you will start to make it so loud is if you put an atmo-venting dump pipe, or in other word: screamer pipe.

Kakimoto exhausts sound very good on on a RB25 too. Not too loud either.

Today I also heard a Go-Zigen (5Zigen) exhaust system on an R33 GT-R. It also has a nice deep sound to it without being too loud too.

I think mine is also a kakimoto exhaust...turbo back system with a massive catalytic converter. It's quiet, but sounds perfect.

going into underground carparks and stuff, u can hear a very bass-y growl, shakes things around u. Turns heads n what not...I've received plenty of compliments.

It puts the turbo's sound into the limelight as well instead of drowning it out. makes a good combination sound when u're thrashing the car around. Sounds like a jet almost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...