Nzm.031's R32 Gtst Ground Up Build.

[NZM.031]

thanks damo, i saw that you'd put off the roll centre idea for a bit .... ill be plotting the points on Susprog and seeing what it comes up with.. again, in an effort to save time i may just get some rca's and bsa's for the front and your mates subframe bushes for the rear and see how that goes first, if i cant get the handling to a point where it feels comfortable then i will go ahead and have a crack..

i like john's idea of the adjustable mounts on the rear subframe...

my idea to raise the castor rod mounts was due to the idea i was going to raise the inner lower control arm mounts pm the crossmember a little bit aswell, and what you're saying makes sense.. but goes against other things that i have read... but if the internet is good for one thing, its contradicting itself, haha.... and porn.

but again... after spending all day researching roll centre.. you have to have a uni degree to even look at some papers... or be able to decipher a bunch of randomness... and none of it is r32 specific of course...

the ride height that i desire is not much lower than i had on the street and it felt ok and it didnt have any castor or camber changes, just coilovers... but ive taken measurements and will begin plotting away just for interests sake.

cheers

[Sparkys]

Nzm.031, quick question. You bought R33 lower control arms, are they the same length as R32?

I bought an R32 shell for a project a while back, and it had massive negative camber on the front left wheel, which I traced to a longer lower control arm. I suspected it was from an R33 and I wondered if people deliberately use them to achieve camber........is that your aim?

[NZM.031]

yes r33/s14 lca are about 15mm longer than an r32/s13 lca.. ive used them for numerous reasons

a)they were available

b)more negative camber

c)more wheel track

d)more room for extra lock due to more track

cheers

Linton

[Roy]

I thought you were selling the 32?

[NZM.031]

I thought you were selling the 32?

haha, i was.. and then i wasnt.. and then i was.. and now im not.. its one of things where at the moment with the mrs still at uni, i cant afford it.. but i also cant really afford to sell it.. but if i stick with it, come 6 months when she can contribute to the house repayments.. then the process will pick up at a rapid pace.

but hey.. everything is for sale for the right price.

cheers

[Sparkys]

Makes sense. How many deg camber do you achieve with the 33 arms?

[DJRIFT]

thanks damo, i saw that you'd put off the roll centre idea for a bit .... ill be plotting the points on Susprog and seeing what it comes up with.. again, in an effort to save time i may just get some rca's and bsa's for the front and your mates subframe bushes for the rear and see how that goes first, if i cant get the handling to a point where it feels comfortable then i will go ahead and have a crack..

i like john's idea of the adjustable mounts on the rear subframe...

my idea to raise the castor rod mounts was due to the idea i was going to raise the inner lower control arm mounts pm the crossmember a little bit aswell, and what you're saying makes sense.. but goes against other things that i have read... but if the internet is good for one thing, its contradicting itself, haha.... and porn.

but again... after spending all day researching roll centre.. you have to have a uni degree to even look at some papers... or be able to decipher a bunch of randomness... and none of it is r32 specific of course...

the ride height that i desire is not much lower than i had on the street and it felt ok and it didnt have any castor or camber changes, just coilovers... but ive taken measurements and will begin plotting away just for interests sake.

cheers

another thing i forgot to add. well 3 points. i had a chat with SK a few years back and he told me then that it was a good idea and resomly easy to put the r33 gtst style front upper arms in. apparently and if you believe most of what you read the 33 arms are more advanced. this has been proven to me but look into it your self. so basically changing your whole front to r33.

second point is. if you read through the link in the aus 300zx thread John has a detailed explanation as to why to mount the castor rod pivots lower than the lower control arm pivots. ive also been told this by other in the know people. Bens targa car has adjustable front mounts but it isnt a series of holes.

and thirdly. if you have read through the roll centre stuff on NS most of it is irrelevant as they are dealing with Mcpherson strut which is a different kettle of fish.

Makes sense. How many deg camber do you achieve with the 33 arms?

it depends on the ride height as skylines dial more camber in the lower they go.

we usualy get around neg 3 with r33 arms stock upper arms and not getto spec low.

[NZM.031]

another thing i forgot to add. well 3 points. i had a chat with SK a few years back and he told me then that it was a good idea and resomly easy to put the r33 gtst style front upper arms in. apparently and if you believe most of what you read the 33 arms are more advanced. this has been proven to me but look into it your self. so basically changing your whole front to r33.

yeh id read into this.. and i can definatly see why i would be better.. it moves up and down in a single plane with the lca, unlike the r32 dogbone which can change as its on 2 axis of movement.. at this stage though, i dont have a welder at home, only at work, and i wouldnt trust the suspension mounts to a cheap welder. but its definatly an option later on...

the old boy suggested something like this (which is similar to what he made for his GT40, he machined custom hubs, with falcon top and bottom wishbones, and at the back he has inboard short stroke dampers and springs, with long control arms to the hubs.. he's great to talk to as nothing is impossible.. his theory is "its metal.. not stone"

mount the UCA down lower on the strut tower and and fix it directly to the hub with a top balljoint, get rid of the kingpin and get rid of the upright.. this would allow it to sit much much lower and still have room for the arms to move.. with a RCA spacer and higher LCA mount position to get the RCA right.

with the king pin arrangement gone, you could now look at machining a custom billet hub as there would not be a great deal involved.. the steering arm could be repositioned to allow for quicker turning, more lock, and different ackerman, aswell as being set for the right ride height and bump steer

but now your talking full on racecar type modification... which is fine, and do-able, but come on, this is just meant to be an entry level track day car.. not at all a competitive car... to live up to the suspension id feel id have to put in a top notch rb26

second point is. if you read through the link in the aus 300zx thread John has a detailed explanation as to why to mount the castor rod pivots lower than the lower control arm pivots. ive also been told this by other in the know people. Bens targa car has adjustable front mounts but it isnt a series of holes.

i will give the link a proper read this afternoon when work dies down..thanks

and thirdly. if you have read through the roll centre stuff on NS most of it is irrelevant as they are dealing with Mcpherson strut which is a different kettle of fish.

yes... kettle of fish it is.. ahhh mchperson struts.. so simple... i was hoping that thread would have an odd good link or something worthwhile

it depends on the ride height as skylines dial more camber in the lower they go.

we usualy get around neg 3 with r33 arms stock upper arms and not getto spec low.

[Jack_Sky]

just wondering how many kilos of dry ice you needed to get the sound deadener out???

[NZM.031]

just wondering how many kilos of dry ice you needed to get the sound deadener out???

well i had 16kg.. and it was plenty to do the whole car by myself.. but i reckon you could do with half of that.. i took my time and did it all in one hit...

[Jack_Sky]

Hmmm, ill see how i go! maybe ill just get 10kg then. should be sufficient enough.

[NZM.031]

Hmmm, ill see how i go! maybe ill just get 10kg then. should be sufficient enough.

10kg should be no troubles... warm flowing air is what kills the dry ice. it can stay in an esky for around 24 hours.. the more you move around and create air flow.. the quicker it will evaporate.. the guy i got it off suggested putting a dry towel over the top of it.. also, it doesnt need to be on the easy areas for long.. once its finished making noise.. get it on to somewhere else.. the hardest spots to get off are the transmission tunnel and the back seat and back wheel wells.. so get the easy parts done quick and get it on these harder areas to sit for a bit.. freezer bags are great to get it in funny spots.. i used freezer bags and blocks of wood to hold it in vertical places.

[GTS4WD]

Very interesting read.

Car looks super tuff already! Cant wait to see it when its done.

I like your attention to detail too.

I like your assessment of weight too.. every gram counts!

Looking forward to your next update

[DJRIFT]

i forgot to add about a million years ago but you really should seem weld and brace the clutch and brake peddal boxes as they flex like a mofo and if you plan on running no booster at some point they will have bullshit amounts of flex in them.

[timr32gts]

more updates car is lookin reall good love your work

[NA_Goodness]

Yeah, anything new happening here? Since Simon's S14 is finished, this is my new most watched thread!

[NZM.031]

ahhhh well lots been happening but no updates yet... since superlap 2010 the car is taking a new direction.. no longer a neat clean, mild track car... it is now completly stripped back to a bare shell.. a very comprehensive cage to be welded in in the next few months and lots of hacking and cutting and shutting of things... aswell as much seam welding..

its been tooo cold in the garage of late so not much work going on.

but thanks for your support

[ausdutchey]

Nice ride man, you wont regret strengthening your frame =]

[nigelp]

Great build, keep up the good work!

[nguyen8892]

any updates on this?