Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No. there is approx 80-90hp loss through the drivetrain in a manual 34.

How do you work that out?

Just wondering as no-one has ever really posted any motor on dyno vs car on chassis results best my knowledge.

Some people use percentage, others fix figures, always different

If someone has actual data to aid speculations that would be good :(

I do it this way.

We all roughly know what a standard RB25DET is rated at the engine and we all roughly know what they make at the wheels standard. There's about a 60-80HP loss give or take depending on the condition of things.

So depending on the extra power (say an increase of 200HP at the wheels), i re-ad the 60-80HP loss (since you aren't going to magically lose less power through the drivetrain as power increases unless you have done something out of the ordinary). This will give you roughly your minimum amount of power at the engine. Then i take into account that as power increases, losses through heat, noise, friction ect. increase. Depending on the added power i say it might lose an extra 10HP or something like that.

It is rough, but atleast you know roughly what it would be.

Edited by PM-R33

^^ +1

This is exactly how I work it.

Percentage loss is incorrect. You can all argue til you're blue in the face about it but it is simply wrong.

Auto gearboxes are close because they have fluid vs centrifugal forces in the converter but it still only goes so far at being close, then the more hp you make, the less accurate your percentage will be.

Most manual gearboxes + medium - heavy diffs will lose anywhere between 70-100hp from the engine. Autos are about another 20% on top of that, that's as far as the percentage will get you.

Of course it's different for each gearbox but we're talking 10-15hp difference and it's about as accurate as you are going to get without engine dynoing.

How do you work that out?

Just wondering as no-one has ever really posted any motor on dyno vs car on chassis results best my knowledge.

Some people use percentage, others fix figures, always different

If someone has actual data to aid speculations that would be good :(

To be honest I always thought it was a percentage added, depending on what car.

Never knew it was fixed figures.

I do it this way.

We all roughly know what a standard RB25DET is rated at the engine and we all roughly know what they make at the wheels standard. There's about a 60-80HP loss give or take depending on the condition of things.

So depending on the extra power (say an increase of 200HP at the wheels), i re-ad the 60-80HP loss (since you aren't going to magically lose less power through the drivetrain as power increases unless you have done something out of the ordinary). This will give you roughly your minimum amount of power at the engine. Then i take into account that as power increases, losses through heat, noise, friction ect. increase. Depending on the added power i say it might lose an extra 10HP or something like that.

It is rough, but atleast you know roughly what it would be.

No. there is approx 80-90hp loss through the drivetrain in a manual 34.

I beg to differ. It's not linear as power increases.

A % is a better tool, but still not accurate.

Fluid viscosity and simple gear mechanics have a lot to do with it. There are engineering articles out there if you'd like to read up on it.

Converting engine bhp to rwhp has to be a around a set HP amount like 70-90hp (what PM-R33 said).

Anyone who stats a percentage is on crack, as this would mean the more HP you make, the more HP you lose. Example based on 10%, @ 300bhp you lose 30hp and @ 500bhp you lose 50hp, BS!!!!!!

I beg to differ. It's not linear as power increases.

A % is a better tool, but still not accurate.

Fluid viscosity and simple gear mechanics have a lot to do with it. There are engineering articles out there if you'd like to read up on it.

It's closer to a fixed figure than it is to a percentage. Unless you are talking about engines producing under 200hp, then both will be extremely close.

The whole idea of power loss has everything to do with gear mechanics and fluid viscosity, yes, but once it gets to a certain point, the percentage figure becomes more and more inaccurate, the further away from it you move.

Plus you'll need to provide a link to any article you are referencing so I can read it.

Converting engine bhp to rwhp has to be a around a set HP amount like 70-90hp (what PM-R33 said).

Anyone who stats a percentage is on crack, as this would mean the more HP you make, the more HP you lose. Example based on 10%, @ 300bhp you lose 30hp and @ 500bhp you lose 50hp, BS!!!!!!

Try doing it for 1000hp or 2000hp. The gearbox has exactly the same counter force no matter how much extra power is turning it. The only thing that can change that is if the fluid changes viscosity (which it does - but ONLY to a certain point), the gears don't become any more resistive.

I beg to differ. It's not linear as power increases.

A % is a better tool, but still not accurate.

Fluid viscosity and simple gear mechanics have a lot to do with it. There are engineering articles out there if you'd like to read up on it.

I never said it was linear.

You know what the car losses through the drivetrain from factory.

Example, the old GTS HSV Monaro's. Rated at 300kw, make about 220-240kw@wheels.

Standard GTST, rated at 180 odd kw, make anywhere from 120-140kw@wheels.

So if the same GTST makes another 110kw@wheels to 250kw@wheels, we re-add that 60-40kw loss, so it pumps it up to 290-310kw@engine. However the engine is now producing more power, therefore everything is slightly increased in loss. This is the figure that can not be given by a percentage, or a fixed linear figure. It varies. I'm sure there would be a close equation you could do to work it out more accuretly. The more power you make, the higher the additional loss through friction, fluids, heat etc.

So in a bit of a maths equation.

kw@motor = kw@wheels + original factory loss (say 50kw to be a nice number) + 'unknown variable' (additional loss as power increases)

= 250kw@wheels + 50kw original loss + 'x'

= 300kw@motor + 'x'

This 'x' value is one that you have to guess logically. It aint going to be 100kw, it aint going to be .5kw. A good educated guess in this case could be 5kw. It will obviously slightly increase with the more power you are making. at 1000kw@motor it might be 50kw.

That is about as accurate as you can get with guessing, and for most people i think it is good enough to have that minium value and a little bit extra. I'd rather under qoute something than over qoute.

Edited by PM-R33

I like to know it due to conversation with people that aren't that into cars. Since most manufacturer's qoute engine HP figures and all modified car owners qoute @ wheel figures it makes discussions with people that aren't into cars difficult.

Classic case, talk to some one that bought a brand new HSV "My HSV makes 307kw, what does yours make" "My car makes 280kw@wheels" "....Haha my stock HSV has more power". Therefore if you are talking to some one, say your friends parents or something, i always use engine HP figures cause by the time i start explaining drive train losses they will tune out and the discussion will be over.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...