Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

New to the skyline scene here. Just bought my first skyline last week, R34 GT-T, and I was wondering if any one could/ or knows where to go to get it installed properly.

I bought it from autobarn and they can install it for $100 and itll take an hour or so. I figgured that SAU people would know if this is decent or maybe some one could help me.

The guy at Autobarn has never installed a Greddy auto turbo timer II before, so im a bit hesitant to get them to do it properly.

Any one can help? Im on the northside but can travel anywhere i need to.

Cheers in advance! :(

Ricky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302701-help-installing-greddy-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

New to the skyline scene here. Just bought my first skyline last week, R34 GT-T, and I was wondering if any one could/ or knows where to go to get it installed properly.

I bought it from autobarn and they can install it for $100 and itll take an hour or so. I figgured that SAU people would know if this is decent or maybe some one could help me.

The guy at Autobarn has never installed a Greddy auto turbo timer II before, so im a bit hesitant to get them to do it properly.

Any one can help? Im on the northside but can travel anywhere i need to.

Cheers in advance! :(

Ricky

Hey man welcome to the forums :D

Just for future reference I wouldnt buy anything like that for your car from Autobarn . . . Ide lean more towards some of the site specific traders like just jap :D

Anyways good luck with tha installation ! ! !

Oh yeah dont forget to post up some pics of your car when you get a chance . . .

P.S. 34 FTW :)

i say get ur $100 back and not worry unless you have been thrashing the crap out of it just before you stop it is useless and best to just drive easy for the last min or 2 before you stop as light driving will cool better than letting sit idle

i say get ur $100 back and not worry unless you have been thrashing the crap out of it just before you stop it is useless and best to just drive easy for the last min or 2 before you stop as light driving will cool better than letting sit idle

Cheers guys for all the replies, Yeah i got plans for her so i will be needing it sooner or later, just guessed that id get it installed now.

Pics will be coming soon. Im just looking for some rims for her. thinking of Rota Wheels.

Cheers,

Ricky :(

so did u end up finding some1 where bouts r u?? i took the timer out of mine wat sort of plug is it/?? may fit the loom i got 2 go stright in

Edited by rb20_180sx
so did u end up finding some1 where bouts r u?? i took the timer out of mine wat sort of plug is it/?? may fit the loom i got 2 go stright in

Yeah man a friend of mine said hes got a mate near runcorn that can install it for a couple of bucks and carton of beer! haha I live on the northside, near Chermside... Yeah its got 3 pins on the connector.. looks like this if you hold it on the side: [=|]

I just rather get some one that has done it before and knows what there doing, and i can watch them so i know what to do next time. the model is a: Greddy full auto timer II. The one with a seperate face.

Cheers,

Ricky :D

I have a connector that will plug that into the car with no cutting. - at wavel hts btw.

Oh just down the road from me! How long would it take for you to fit it and have it up and running? Also what would you charge?

Cheers!

Ps. I've heard about you Chris... That your the guy that knows everything.. haha.. (thats a good thing)

Ricky

Edited by ricky_88
I just rather get some one that has done it before and knows what there doing, and i can watch them so i know what to do next time. the model is a: Greddy full auto timer II. The one with a seperate face.

Cheers,

Ricky :(

Its plug and play if you buy the connector of Chris.

Like 3 plugs and your done unless you want the 0 to 100 and theft/saftey functions (about the only thing it is good for) then you need to splice wires to handbreak and speed sensor on the ecu.

post-41401-1262915639_thumb.jpg post-41401-1262915648.jpg

Or i am sure Chris can do it for you at a good price he is one of the best.

:)

Edited by 99 GTT
i say get ur $100 back and not worry unless you have been thrashing the crap out of it just before you stop it is useless and best to just drive easy for the last min or 2 before you stop as light driving will cool better than letting sit idle

lol yeah i only use mine when im drifting at the track when i drive around the streets i usually just turn it off when i get out of my car .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...