Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently trying to get more info on models of Stageas, I think a few ppl in Oz will be interested since compliance is now available.

Can you confirm the models in W34 and their specs?

Thnx

Ok... you asked for it!!!:cheers:

1996 - 2001 Nissan Stagea (Model/grade followed by the build period)

2.0 20G 96/09~01/09

2.0 20X 97/11~01/09

2.0 20RS 00/06~01/09

2.0 20RS NAVI Edition 00/06~01/09

2.5 25G 96/09~98/07

2.5 25RS 97/08~01/09

2.5 25X 96/09~01/09

2.5 25G FOUR 96/09~98/07

2.5 25RS NAVI Edition 00/06~01/09

2.5 Type-B 00/06~01/09

2.5 25RS Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.5 25RS FOUR 97/11~01/09

2.5 25X FOUR 96/09~01/09

2.5 RS FOUR 96/09~98/07

2.5 25t RS FOUR 97/08~98/07

2.5 25t RS V 98/08~01/09

2.5 25RS FOUR NAVI Edition 00/06~01/09

2.5 25RS FOUR Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.5 25t RS FOUR V 97/08~01/09

2.5 RS FOUR V 96/09~98/07

2.5 25t RS V Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.5 25t X FOUR 97/08~01/09

2.5 25t RS FOUR S 98/08~01/09

2.5 25t RS FOUR V Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.6 Autech Version 260RS 97/10~01/09

2.6 Autech Version 260RS (with Rear Spoiler)

Key:

2.0 20G and 20X = RB20E (130ps single cam base model)

2.0 20RS = RB20DE (155ps "sporty" base model... worth a look for a cheap wagon)

2.5 RS and 25RS = RB25DE (200ps... nice...)

2.5 25t = RB25DET (Neo 280ps... probably the one you'll see most)

The other models don't need any more explanation I assume. All the rest are various 2WD and 4WD RB25DE and RB25DET combinations with different trim levels. All models came only in AT except the Autech Versions and the 2.5 25t RS FOUR S and the 2.5 Type-B wich was available with both AT and MT transmissions.

You are Champ!!! :)

Thanks ... any Photos???

or do they have Stagea Club in japan? web site perhaps??;)

cheers

Joe

You want linkage too??? :) ok...

Check out the WGNC34 Stagea History...

**Note the Series 1 WGNC34 was produced from 3/10/1996, and the Series 2 from the 31/8/1998. The Series 1 had the lower power out put from all engines, in paticular the RB25DET with 235ps. The Series 2 upped the power of the RB25DET (with help from NEO-6) to 280ps... the post August '98 models are the pick of the bunch obviously.

Rezz, you wouldn't happen to know if Nissan did some kind of Limited edition stagea available in Bayside Blue? I've seen one in my local area a couple of times. It's a stagea, it looks completely standard and its definitely bayside blue. doesn't look like a respray either...(not that I can tell from just driving past)

Mmmm, Bayside Blue...

You mean like this, Dave? colorblue.jpg

Its Bayside Blue #TV2... off of that link I posted above. All those colors represented are factory.... limited edition I don't know.

I've never seen one in Bayside Blue personally though.

cheers Rezz, sounds like the 25t RS FOUR post 98 is the winner, or a 260rs if you've got too much money :D

Could you tell us more about the manual versions:

2.5 25t RS FOUR S 98/08 - 01/09

2.5 Type-B 00/06 - 01/09

Whats the difference apart from build dates? What do the fully optioned ones go for?

Could you tell us more about the manual versions:

2.5 25t RS FOUR S     98/08 - 01/09  

2.5 Type-B                  00/06 - 01/09

Whats the difference apart from build dates? What do the fully optioned ones go for?

The 25t RS FOUR S has:

17" rims with 215/50 rubber standard, the NEO Straight 6 engine, optional twin sunroofs, rear foglamps, and comes in Red, Dark blue, Yellow, Black, Green Pearl, and Silver. Went new for 3,260,000 yen.

The Type-B has:

None of the above, except it has 16" rims with 205/55 rubber and a non-NEO 6 RB25DET (same power as the NEO though... strangely quoted as 280ps). It's also strange to point out that the Type B doesn't seem to have a sound system available for it, not even a radio. At first I thought it might be like an "N1" version, but I think this might be a mistake. It's strange because all this info is taken direct from Nissan Color catalogues. Went new for 3,040,000 yen.

This fully optioned one...

D098008654L.JPG

...is going for 1,880,000 yen from a dealer. It's aaaaaall good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...