Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you probably have too much 'loud pedal' fun with it or drive it most of the time sitting in traffic jam.

with gentle , nanna style driving to and from work in daily traffic jam, I made 13.1 to 13.3ltr/100km average or around 7.64~7.5 km/ltr

so your figure isn't awfully too bad.

over the quiet Xmas & NY period I made 12.9ltr/100km or around 7.75 km/ltr

So yours 7.8km/ltr that is 12.8 ltr/100km - MUCH BETTER ECONOMY THAN MINE!

what are you complaining about?

How to read original (non-Xanavi translated to english) consumption figure (the Japanese way):

The higher the number, the better the fuel economy. It is in km/ltr. more kms per each litre of petrol = better fuel economy.

how to read Xanavi translated to english consumption figure (the Australian way):

The lower the number, the better the fuel economy. translated software version is now in ltr/100km. less litre used for each 100km travel = better fuel economy.

Just did my first tank of fuel.

Did two trips from Brisbane to Burleigh heads (about 350-400km total) and the rest was regular town driving but that included a fair bit of heavy foot driving seeing what the car has got.

So this arvo at pump I put in 57 litres, and I had done over 550km's since the last time it was filled.

10.3 litres/100km :laugh:

7.8Km/L for urban driving seems average from what I've read in this section...

I get about 8-9km/L around town, though I never drive in any form of 'peak hour traffic'. On the highway it's usually about 11-12km/L, my best was a Christmas day trip last year Syd to Melbourne, I got about 13.5Km/L for the trip and nearly made it to Melb on one tank! (For the first time I can remember I was glad for all the Police presence keeping me to the speed limit... I discovered how much better economy you get sitting on only 100-110kmh, go figure?!).

Oh and I get about 2.8-3.1km/L on the track (assuming the trip computer calculates correctly) and that's giving it as much loud pedal as the circuit allows!

Not sure if MT vs AT is something to consider in this discussion? Mine is MT

Oh and I get about 2.8-3.1km/L on the track (assuming the trip computer calculates correctly) and that's giving it as much loud pedal as the circuit allows!

2.8-3.1 on the track - wowser!

I was getting about 4.1 on Sandown.

post-55164-1263801180_thumb.jpg

This photo was taken after a recent highway trip, just after i filled up, ended up getting 900kms from 75 litres.

regularly get around 10.5km per litre according to the fuel consumption screen, and thats back up at the bowser with 60 litres getting around 600kms.

2.8-3.1 on the track - wowser!

I was getting about 4.1 on Sandown.

Here's a pic from a track day before I got the TopSpeed Pro1 Exhaust fitted... (which seemed to decrease the economy further, or it might have been that I got more confident with the track and was pushing harder in subsequent days?)

post-60966-1263812952_thumb.jpg

I usually get anywhere between 7 km/l to 8.5 km/l depending on traffic. Most of my driving is either short trips in the burbs or the 25km commute to work and back in just (barely) pre-peak hour Melbourne traffic.

Taking the car on a nice long trip this coming weekend so I look forward to seeing how I go with economy. Will finally get to put that cruise control that Chris Rogers did for me to good use use :D

I get around 8.5km/l around town in a 6MT. Almost made it back to Brisbane from Sydney on one tank in 2008 when I first bought the car(900km+). At the other extreme though on my first skid pan day I was almost exclusively in first gear (reving the nuts off it of course) and managed the dubious fuel burn rate of 19 litres for 19km of driving. Could not believe it and now that I am game to tackle it in 2nd gear consumption has improved vastly.

my last Scoresby Fwy trip yields me 9.6ltr/100km with 130-ish km on the odo trip meter and estimated 530+ km still available based on the trip computer's estimation - it is possible to get 600-700km a tank on the 3.5 ltr if I can keep the pace like that (e.g. long trip 6-7 hours non stop)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...