Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i just bought a R34 GTR V-Spec. it should be here around the end of Feb.

i was just curious as to what other mods GTR owners have done to their so that the popo can't slap a defect on their cars.

thanks

V

that sounds kind of circular.

If you don't want a defect, don't mod it.

If you do mod it, then avoid the mods that can be defected.

Your friendly local tuning shop can certainly advise where the line is and you can figure out how close to skate to it, or over it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304299-mods-to-r34-gtr/#findComment-5039654
Share on other sites

Hey man congrats on the new car,

one thing ive noticed on the gtr is that the twin turbos act really well as resonators for the exhaust so you can buy some really well designed exhausts which flow well and fit snug against the body so it will give great ground clearance (unlike the silvia exhausts which sit sooo close to the ground)

Ive had mine tested and it came out at 88dB @ 5000rpm which is impressive but still howls when you put your foot down

a panel filter in the stock box will flow some great power....although you lose that nice induction sound

a power fc can be hidden well with a nissan sticker put over the logo and be replaced with the stocker if you get an EPA test

bost controller hidden somewhere in the engine bay (a HKS unit is black and dosent seem to be noticed) boost set at 1bar tuned and a low setting (under 1 bar) can be used if you have to remove the aftermarket ECU for the stocker

should get you over 240awkw - 250awkw (mines at 255 with only pods as an extra)

goodluck n enjoy the car

-Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304299-mods-to-r34-gtr/#findComment-5039987
Share on other sites

pretty much all the power mods that wont get me a defect, cuz im sick of getting them!!!!!!

i know i can have either a cooler or poddie

i know i cant have any type of boost controller, but is there anyway i can get the boost up without a manual or EBC???

thanks

V

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304299-mods-to-r34-gtr/#findComment-5041576
Share on other sites

You DEFINATELY don't need or want an aftermarket intercooler and you don't need pod filters either. They'll just attract attention.

A good start will be to remove the boost restrictor near the boost solenoid (search and U will find) and get a decent legal exhaust including aftermarket dump pipes and y pipe, a high flow cat and a legal cat-back or get a cat-back made. That should get you to about 220rwkw.

Next step would be a pair or 707160-9 turbos, a Power FC (unplug the hand controller once tuned and nobody will know) and a Turbotech boost controller (hidden). That should get you 300rwkw

Edited by bradsm87
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304299-mods-to-r34-gtr/#findComment-5041647
Share on other sites

how much boost does that restrictor hold back, and what will i be getting it up to??

are you talking about the $30 boost controller off ebay. isn't that a bit dangerous for running alot of power???

thanks

V

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304299-mods-to-r34-gtr/#findComment-5043078
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...