Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hoping someone may be able to help us out

just got my new motor going forged internals big sump etc. etc.

Head was checked out and setup to run my Tomei poncams I had used previously

Now its running and all seems happyish

except only seeing -35 kpa vac at idle (factory spec -65 kpa)

this on the stock gauge appears as the mark half way to -700 mmHg (factory spec should be -480 mmHg)

would love to know what others with poncams are seeing

cams will obviously effect vacume at idle but this seems a bit excessive

have checked and cant seem to find any other vac leaks???????????????

any assistance apreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304566-rb26-vacuum-at-idle/
Share on other sites

Yeh cams will affect vacuum, wats the duration and lift of these cams?

also double, triple, and quadruple check your intake side, for vacuum leaks. Im fighting a leak right now, and its a prick of a thing.

but id say its just the cams. does it rev and idle ok?

if it pops, farts and stumbles when you rev it, thatll be a vacuum leak, otherwise, its the cams.

thanks for the replys

car runs well idle is a bit up'n down 900ish to maybe as high as 1000 rpm

but seems to be reasonably steady round 950ish once properly warm

car is not making much power though at really small throttle openings

eg trying to get up a steep driveway

new motor and new twin plate OS Giken so a new learning curve I spose as well

Have not done a real tuning run for power yet just checked afr's etc and loaded it up for a bit on the dyno

need rego next to put some km's on it

Am hoping once i get the cam timing done an a proper power tune it will be better

edit: poncams so 264 9.6 on both (if memory serves me right)

Edited by noone

sorry man i dont have much experience with 26s... ill just say that in advance lol

stock duration is 240 deg IIRC so youve got an increase of 15deg there, should shift your powerband up a fair bit, but i cant see it having that much of a drastic affect of your idle, the overlap wouldnt be THAT major. compared to say, the 285s that some people use. in theory, if 265s cause you to loose that much idle vacuum, a car with 285s would barely idle sub 1000rpm!

but

idle is a bit up'n down
that is a classic symptom of a vacuum leak on a MAF sensored car. try spraying carb cleaner/aero start around the intake manifold, and if your idle changes or your misfire etc, youve found your vacuum leak.

i guess you're gonna have to hear from another 26 owner as to the vacuum they see...

do you still have the ITBs?

Yeah ITB's am wondering if I still have a leak the cams are not that big

tried some carby cleaner but no real joy

After reading bout your drama with injector o-rings will try n blast some aerostart or somesuch

around there an see if that shows anything up

yeh that fkn o-ring was my problem... prick of a thing to get to on my car, entire top half of the intake manifold needs to come off to get to the fuel rail (like half an hour job even though ive done it like 10 times now)

good luck bro, hope ya get it sorted. darwin needs more GTR love on the streets lol

car is not making much power though at really small throttle openings

eg trying to get up a steep driveway

Am hoping once i get the cam timing done an a proper power tune it will be better

Well you have a problem, and you know what's likely causing it...

The setup by your own admission isn't even done yet.

Its very hard to say what is wrong or right, if you've yet to sort it all out...

Side note - you may well find the driveway issue won't go away. Part and parcel of larger cams.

These cams are not exactly new to me

Ran they in my last motor as stated in the first post

though had cam timing sorted on install so I spose without cam gears adjusted they might be that doughy down low

but I doubt it

Basic setup has been done, just not power tune :)

afrs etc looked fine tuner didnt really notice anything amiss till he did a lap of the block

to make sure no drivability issues, an there it was, along with an oil leak from the cam cover half moon seal

Appreciate the help though guys

Darwin definitely needs more GTR's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...