Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Camber Is Bad?

knighty
 Share

Recommended Posts

knighty Rookie

knighty

Posted
Posted

just purchased an R33 GTST series 1... drove her 1700k's and the inside of the tires are gone, the car is lowered alot im not sure exactly how much. just wanted to know how to fix it without handing it over to the local pedders and not being happy with the work done.

very noob question, :D but i just wanted to know my best option(s) for this pickle

cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304789-front-camber-is-bad/
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Get the wheel alignment done first, and that will tell you if got enough adjustment with the factory suspension to get a reasonable setup or if you'll need to raise it and/or add some adjustable arms/bushes. Typically the lower you go, the more adjustability you need to be able get the alignment right.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
just purchased an R33 GTST series 1... drove her 1700k's and the inside of the tires are gone, the car is lowered alot im not sure exactly how much. just wanted to know how to fix it without handing it over to the local pedders and not being happy with the work done.

very noob question, :) but i just wanted to know my best option(s) for this pickle

cheers guys.

when you lower an r33 you increase the camber (due to the design of the suspension), i would say you have increase camber and possible some incorrect toe setup. the best bet would be to get a wheel alignment they will be able to tell you what you are running then adjust it to reduce the camber

  • 3 weeks later...
panzer Collaborator

panzer

Posted
Posted

Im in the same boat, just installed new coilovers and lowered the car quite a bit.

Found out that i already had a maxxed out front bushes camber kit and was still running almost -2.0 degrees on the front and -2.0 on the rears.

Ended up going with some upper control arms and front castor arms and shes all sweet now.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

R33s have no stock front camber adjustment. You can only adjust toe and it would be unusual to have so much toe out that its wearing the inside of your tyres. I doubt a wheel alignment will help but it will show you whats going on.

The only way to reduce camber without fitting bushes is to raise the ride height and I think this will probably be the issue.

  • 2 weeks later...
winstonusmc Enthusiast

winstonusmc

Posted
Posted

When a car is lowered, it pulls the upper part of the suspension in due to the higher angle on the upper control arm. The toe arms or tie rods end up pushing the suspension forward a little causing it to toe in a little. Camber doesnt hurt tires near as bad as toe.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

+1 for toe being a bigger problem than camber on front wheels. on the front have bad camber only puts a bit of extra weight on the inside edge, but when you corner the outside wheels will sit flatter. but having too much toe out means that the wheel isn't actually turning in the same direction as the car is moving so you end up with the tyre skidding along as well as spinning. i had the inside edge of the tyres on my pulsar wear out despite have less than 0.5 degrees of camber, but i had over 2mm of toe out. getting a wheel alignment so there was only about 0.5mm of toe out also dramatically reduced the amount of torque steer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...