Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Number 2 injector is leaking on my L24E, probably from the hose. What's the recommended fix?

A quick search of the forum suggests that RB30 hose/tail are straight swap but there seems to be some uncertainty if RB30 are the correct impedance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304928-replace-leaking-injector-on-l24e/
Share on other sites

im 100% sure they work. also the CA20 items work too.

funny cos my number 2 is pissing, but im getting the whole lot replaces with 270cc hosetails for my turbo setup

Any recommendations on where to source them? In one of the old posts there was a link to www.injectorsonline.com. They seem to sell L24E injectors for about $80 - what do you reckon? Have you heard anything about this mob?

Also, I saw in an old post you had some troubles removing the oil pressure sensor. How did you go removing it and presumably replacing it? Was it a tough job?

Number 2 injector is leaking on my L24E, probably from the hose...

According to the service manual, the hose can be cut using a soldering iron, removed and a new one pushed on. 

JH

According to the service manual, the hose can be cut using a soldering iron, removed and a new one pushed on.

JH

JH, so slice it length-ways with soldering iron to get it off. Then push new hose on and then the screwed down 'rail' keeps it all together? Have you done this?

JH, so slice it length-ways with soldering iron to get it off. Then push new hose on and then the screwed down 'rail' keeps it all together? Have you done this?

Haven't done it. Just reading from the R30 service manual. It says to wet the inside of the new hose with fuel, push hose and hose socket on by hand, no clamps necessary (page EF-56). 

JH

I've seen them cut, hose slid on, with a clamp

thought I throw this in as well, (when I was researching for my turbo build) not sure if they are %100 correct though

and the RB30 (non turbo) are to small for a L24 Turbo engine.

280ZX - 180cc

L20et - 188cc

RB30 - 200cc

RB30ET - 250cc

L28ET - 265cc Low Impedance

RB20DET - 270cc

RB25DE - 270cc

VG30et - 270-280cc (turbo ones)

280ZX Turbo 280cc (turbo ones) ??? not sure about this one.

7MGE Toyota 295cc

FJ20ET - 360-370cc

RB25DET - 370cc (sidefeed) No good

RB26DETT - 440cc Low Impedance

Nigel

post-13098-1264073256_thumb.jpg

Guys,

Number 2 injector is leaking on my L24E, probably from the hose. What's the recommended fix?

A quick search of the forum suggests that RB30 hose/tail are straight swap but there seems to be some uncertainty if RB30 are the correct impedance.

Just go and buy some fuel hose from repco/autopro/supercheap and cut the old hose off and replace it with the new hose. I have done this with all my injectors as well as adding hose clamps at the injector end. No more leaks.

Wardie

Yeah, I've done the cut-with-a-soldering-iron thing before and fitted new hoses - not too hard. You can buy an injector reco kit which comes with new line filters, seals etc.

But first, you might want to double check exactly where the leaking is coming from. I've had repeated problems with the black-phenolic-bush-adaptor-mount thingys cracking, so that fuel leaks from the lower ring seal. So in my case, replacing the hoses it made no difference because they weren't the course of my problems. I have a hunch that the busted adaptors might be caused by ethanol (or some other additive) in the fuel making the seal swell and crack the phenolic.

Yeah, I've done the cut-with-a-soldering-iron thing before and fitted new hoses - not too hard. You can buy an injector reco kit which comes with new line filters, seals etc.

But first, you might want to double check exactly where the leaking is coming from. I've had repeated problems with the black-phenolic-bush-adaptor-mount thingys cracking, so that fuel leaks from the lower ring seal. So in my case, replacing the hoses it made no difference because they weren't the course of my problems. I have a hunch that the busted adaptors might be caused by ethanol (or some other additive) in the fuel making the seal swell and crack the phenolic.

best way to check if injectors are leaking is by spraying it to see if it makes a change in idle... do not over tighten your injectors as the spacing blocks will crack and are quite difficult to find

on my turbo setup im useing R31 injector holders, 10 times better design, alot stronger too.

I'm still using the MR30 injector holders on my turbo L24, MAG86, do you have some picture you can put somewhere to show me what these look like and how they fit ?

Nigel

Ha ha, easy fix. Just tightened the hose clamp at the top of the hose where it meets the rail. :)

Previous own said he'd replaced inj's 1 and 2. I guess he didn't tighten up the clamps properly.

MAG86, still interested in the R31 replacment though - just for reference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...