Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep Merli, I learnt the hard way with a fuel pump upgrade and stock ecu.

No point wasting money on tuning the ecu to suit the RB20 when the RB30 will be in there soon.

Short motor should be ready 3rd maybe 4th week of Jan (waiting on forged pistons). Head etc.. is already done.

Its going to be run in with low boost and stock ecu with the rings bedded in on the dyno and a few checks to make sure the stock ecu will not run to rich/lean etc.

I've been told to run it in with the stock ecu then slap in the new ecu with injectors turbo and let it rip.

terry.m, good idea getting a decent Jap exhaust.

You can pick them (cat back) up in stainless for $700 in excellent condition second hand. They do bolt on exactly. From there look at a front pipe and highflow cat (or decat pipe - for racing use only of course:))

I noticed you have a '95 skyline - seems several people here have had some good results with the 95 ecu, in some cases it seems to produce alot closer to 'good' air fuel ratios than some of the other years.

Getting a bleed valve and putting the car on a dyno will tell you alot more about where your AFRs are. From here I would recommend a cooler - as colder charge air will deliver alot more power, I fried my clutch as soon as my cooler was fitted (but I already had a power fc).

From here, if needed, engine management of some type. There are heaps of different options around, and as merli posted earlier, get it right the first time and save a fortune ( I have got it wrong a couple of times, and both times it ended up costing me over $1000+ to learn the hard way:))

Also, dont forget suspension and brakes. By setting up your suspension correctly, you will be able to get the power down alot easier. Simple and relatively cheap options like cradle bushes help, also, not a cheap one, but decent coilover suspension or coils and shocks will make a huge difference to how the car drives - and driving pleasure is what it is all about.

You will probably realise that you can spend as much money as you want, but do it smart and you wont regret it.

Lastly (but not least), welcome to SAU.

Steve

Thanx Steve,

It looks like I may have to hold the mods off for a while...I am suspecting a new clutch is needed. On 2 occasions now, I've reved to around 3000 - 4000 rpm, let the clutch out and...nothing! The revs go up to 6000rpm but I'm not going anywhere. The stupid thing is that it doesnt happen all the time. I tried taking off in 5th at 1500rpm and the engine stalled, this tells me that there is nothing wrong with it. There is no crunching in any gears except for the infamous 1st to second cold change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...