Jump to content
SAU Community

The Dreaded Factory Wing Mirror Rust

kidafa

By kidafa,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

Don't have $200? I've seen many stag owners have this kind of coin to throw around. All Type Crash told me today they can easily cut up and reweld a plate in place of any rust infection around the stagea mirrors. Or get another door from JIS for $200-$250.

Just picked up my Stagea from ATC today and no more cancer of the passenger door. Repairs to my sideswipe damage looks top notch too. :thumbsup:

Timing is great Ruby, my rust is just starting to show on the passenger side :( You still have a black stag, yes? I wonder if ATC can repair pear white... I shall call them Monday. Got to get on top of this surface rust before I have big problems, like the old bluebird...

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't have $200? I've seen many stag owners have this kind of coin to throw around. All Type Crash told me today they can easily cut up and reweld a plate in place of any rust infection around the stagea mirrors. Or get another door from JIS for $200-$250

I dont see how a crash shop will do rust removal with welding in new plates and re painting to sides for $200. If so id like to see the quality of the work. 1/3 of the side will need to be resprayed to blend it properly.

And no I dont have $200 to throw around..... Instead I purchased ganador mirrors for $400 and got them painted for $100 and then I get the enjoyment and satisfaction of removing the rust myself :-)

czeno Explorer

czeno

Posted
Posted

Ah I was wondering what lurked beneath the wing mirrors & how to get there. Mine needs sorting out, I've halted what I can see with fish oil to buy some time but suspect the oil hasn't reached in far enough. No end to time spent in the shed on this baby.

  • 4 months later...
SatchiThaStagea Community Regular

SatchiThaStagea

Posted
Posted

+1 for everything kidafa has said.

While changing my mirrors today I thought I'd got off lightly. I started with the passenger side and apart for some light rust that I hit with converter I was happy, then i did the drivers side and found quite a bit more, far deeper and wide spread. None of this was visible with the mirrors fitted and the only upside is that I hadn't waited till was visible or it would be much harder to fix.

CHECK YOUR MIRRORS FOR RUST PEOPLE!!

Once I removed all the loose stuff, got some foam sticks, (paint brush handles with a block of foam rubber on the end instead of the usual bristles ~ Bunnings El cheapo) & treated the inside with the same chemical steps as the outside. The foam pads can be formed to fit the inside contours of the door with your finger, messy on fingers but effective on inner unreachable door skin.

I like that idea was wondering how I was gonna get in there

Last thing I did was get into the bottom of the doors & brush out/vacuum all the loose crap out that had shed from the mirror area over time & with my activities. There was quite a bit to suck out. Rust flakes, lots.

Is this necessary? Will all the flaky bits that have fallen in the door start more rust?

Looks like it'd be a PITA to get a vac in there!

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Is this necessary? Will all the flaky bits that have fallen in the door start more rust?

Looks like it'd be a PITA to get a vac in there!

Yes - the crap can block the drain holes causing the bottom of the door to rust. Check the accessories that came with your vacuum cleaner - there is often some kind of wand for hard to reach places.

  • Like 1
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

I did mine in 06 when I got the Stag. Just had to do them again, only the drivers side though. Just cleaned up rust converter then some primer and the colour.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...