Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive been using toluene for a while now, I took the safe option and gor the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) when I baught it. I have used it with bp ultimate 20l Toluene 40l bp, this means u can be more aggrecive with the timing and so forth. Now I run it with avgas. Same deal 20l toluene with 40l avgas. Cant believ the differance, B4 I was making 268RWKW with bp and toluene now with the Avi and toluene 316RWKW. Big differance the tuning is vital to to this though

Originally posted by rev210

Yes, all fuels do that hence some people like to 'sniff' them to get the central nervous system effect. If fact ALL  

solvent based glues and paints have the same classification.This includes ordinary correction fluid like "liquid paper".

ethonal isnt, and neither is liquid paper

Originally posted by antuanstylar

ethonal isnt, and neither is liquid paper

ok lets pick nits then. :)

if I was reffering to alcohols like ethanol as a 'solvent' then I'd be wrong wouldn't I. Just like saying water is a solvent.

I should have said petrolium based solvent or something.

I believe the 'new' version of liquid paper doesn't contain xylene anymore (it used to), same as the old artline markers.

One thing i would like to know is, does anyone running toluene with Premium or Avgas run an exhaust temp gauge?

On paper the mix does increase exhaust temps... just wondering if they were measurable and whether they bumped temps up to around/over 1000degC.

MattR... didnt you lose an engine by dropping an exhaust valve... could the increased exhaust temps from the fuel mix your running be a contributing factor???

That is a very interesting point Roy.. If the increased exhaust temps from the fuel mix possibly damaging the exhaust valve.

As said before by a couple who use it on track bikes etc.. No problems as long as you don't use more than 30%.

20L of Toluene is just over that 30%.

Remember heat is a factor for killing ceramic turbo's hence why they don't like track days.

Any one tried it with Synergy 8000. I am able to run more timing @ 16psi compared to when I run BP98. BP98 causes the car to go flat for a sec then pics up and then goes flat again. Running less timing fixes the power loss/dip feeling but that isn't the point :)

I've repeated the experiment over and over again as BP98 is slightly cheaper by around 3cents per litre.

It would take a big effort to get your exhaust temps up around 1000degC your Turbo ex.manifold and dump pipe would be white hot.

You can only buy Toluene as 100%. It is labled Methyl Benzine 100% V/V Toluene.

I think 4 Doorz supplier was looking for an excuse to stop selling to him at $42/20l as the price elsewhere is now over $50

obviously expensive motoring....has anyone got a hard price on 200L drum 'cause that would be the way to go

Ive been in two cars with EGT gauges, one got a little over 900deg C, the other sits in the mid 800s. Both were on pump gas running 1 bar (give or take).

I dont think it takes a big effort, just 2-3 laps of your local circuit, which is when i use toluene.

PS - Im so glad i dont have an oil/water temp gauges or an EGT gauge, what i dont know cant hurt me.

Originally posted by KNG-32R

Rev 210, a little interested as to how you are calculating your RON levels...?

It's a bit of a very rough guesstimation, since the real calculation of RON is done on a knock engine.

My idea (probably wrong) is that the chemicals present do not adversly effect each others RON/MON by reaction. That way we can work out the rough average RON of the mixture.

I guess the bottom line is that the Toluene or Xylene mixture is definately better than the ocatne boosters commonly found on the auto store shelf.

Originally posted by 51jay

I think 4 Doorz supplier was looking for an excuse to stop selling to him at $42/20l as the price elsewhere is now over $50

obviously expensive motoring....has anyone got a hard price on 200L drum  'cause that would be the way to go

Seems that way, as now he is saying all purchasers need to have a CAMS license, and all BP servos have told me that I have to take my CAMS license to the BP depot (the ones who have heard of toluene that is).

I agree 200L drum would be the way to go...anyone got prices? where to buy?

I wouldn't go to a hardware, try Shell service station or depot and talk about it as solvent not fuel, or Trade supplies of Automotive paints.

Incidently if you want to use it legally as fuel you need to approach the appropriate? Gov dep. and arrange to pay the fuel exise to them on any amounts you buy. I don't know as yet if this applies when you are using it in small amounts as an octane booster. (is fuel tax included in price of retail octane boosters?)

Cams licence I believe only applies to leaded fuels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...