Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mmm 11k for a bare block. then add 4k for a billet crank to make it worth while....so 15k + pistons and rods...and you are still left with a standard head, and most likley the OEM RB oil pump problems unless you go dry sump so add another 5k minium.

Lots of coin to save 20-30 kgs

$11k sounds like a fair price, it would be at least $3-4k for material and maybe 60-70 hours on a CNC machine at $80/hr.

you could go through a lot of $300 05U's till it started to be worth the $$.

but as i said before some guys who have money to spend will do just that.

its not that much, i paid 4k for an n1 block a few years ago. These are more for balancing out the cars front end weight problem more than anything. I'd love to see the weight of one though. Im pretty sure the stocker weighs 54kg from memory. Ill find out what a billet v8 block weighs for a rough idea as someone i know has one is his drag funny car.

That's what I was thinking. The main reason for using this block is the strength and the weight advanage. Gtr's are very front heavy with the 4WD bits not helping. If you were building a race engine with a big buget, this block would be the way to go.

Does anyone know a car running one of these engine blocks?

its not that much, i paid 4k for an n1 block a few years ago. These are more for balancing out the cars front end weight problem more than anything. I'd love to see the weight of one though. Im pretty sure the stocker weighs 54kg from memory. Ill find out what a billet v8 block weighs for a rough idea as someone i know has one is his drag funny car.

Nowadays you can pick up a brand new N1 block for under $3000 so the price difference is still quite substantial. But like you have said, the weight difference is the main advantage, how much the weight difference is, is still unclear. With the light weight block, light weight crank and light internals you could definetely get a lot of the weight from out the front. As i said earlier 20-30kg would be great but if a RB block is 54kg, than that 30kg might be pushing it.

Whether this is all worth the coin i suppose is up to the companies running these cars.

Edited by PM-R33

I emailed the company thats where the $11,000 figure came from, email them yourself if your unsure. Also the crap i was dribbling was caused by a bottle of jim beam that found its way into my mouth lol.

I have been told that an LS1 (alloy) V8 bare block weighs around 42kg. A bare WRX block can easily be carried around by one person (probably 25-35kg). I think you could expect a 15-20kg weight saving using an alloy block. Plus a whole lot stronger!

the added bonus is the liners, they are easy to replace so if you happen to smash a piston or score the bore just rip the liner out and throw a new one in and off you go. The drag guys do the liners and it saves throwing away blocks left right and centre if things go wrong. As long as you dont punch rods through the side of the block its gonna last a very long time.

the added bonus is the liners, they are easy to replace so if you happen to smash a piston or score the bore just rip the liner out and throw a new one in and off you go. The drag guys do the liners and it saves throwing away blocks left right and centre if things go wrong. As long as you dont punch rods through the side of the block its gonna last a very long time.

Even if you do rod the block you can fix it. That's another big advantage.

I have been told that an LS1 (alloy) V8 bare block weighs around 42kg. A bare WRX block can easily be carried around by one person (probably 25-35kg). I think you could expect a 15-20kg weight saving using an alloy block. Plus a whole lot stronger!

Hmm that LS1 block is a lot heavier than i thought considering an entire LS1 is around 50kg lighter than an RB25.

Hmm that LS1 block is a lot heavier than i thought considering an entire LS1 is around 50kg lighter than an RB25.

Apparently a complete LS1 weighs 195kg, although not even the LS1 users have exact weights, they usually just guess.

Being billet I doubt the weight saving would be terribly significant. They look like very nice work but personally I think you could spend 11k on a lot of other things that would improve performance far more. They would be great for a really extreme engine where you might regularly punch holes through them with broken rods etc.. you could just weld it up and put it back in the machine and remachine it.

If it was me I'd stick to the factory block and spend the money on a good crank, oil system, headwork and maybe a gearbox. To me a cast iron block is a real advantage as they're much stiffer.

Thoes blocks look like they should be in a show room. I see by their lack of prices these fall into the "if you need to ask" catagory of parts. It would be really neat to see a company like that , that makes engines from raw material make a rb38 or something. I've always thought about how cool it would be if a macinist in his spare time could make a 4L 2 stroke rotax and put it in a car.

not quite 4L (2.8) but 6 cyl 2 stroke in a snow mobile :P

6cyclinderside.jpg

2700Sidecockpit.jpg6CYLINDERinbox.jpg

pipey madness :P

fairly sure the 20/25 are around 250kg's complete and for the GTR's out there add on another lump of shit for the 4wd you would be pushing up near the 280+kg mark. 25g/box weigh ~ 55kg with oil... 26 more again with the adapter for 4wd...

Makes me sick when i look at some other weights i have listed..

CA18DET without transmission is only 128kg...

SR20 non earlier non vvt 150kg without trans... (later with vvt is ~10kg more)

but they are just four bangers, not that bad?

VG30DET 210kg without trans.

ford small block 220kg without trans.

chevy small block 260kg without trans.

Infact the only engine i have listed that is HEAVIER (and it makes me smile) the old 2JZ which comes in at 340kg WITH Transmission. which is a good 40kg more than a 20/25/26 NON 4wd. GTR's would probably be around the same or more with there added fat.

so if these block are substantially lighter the RB crowd would definently be winners. Not sure why you would bother with the SR20 though considering you already have a light alloy block with sleeves. but.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...