Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

I've been lurking a while and have been absorbing in all the great info on this site.

I inspected an 98 S2 RS4 today and would like to make a serious offer, BUT I'm mega paranoid about the dreaded rust under the exterior mirrors that seems to be so prevalent!

I could find no visual rust in the locations mentioned in the buyers guide (ie Strut Towers, Under the Wing Mirrors, Sun Roof Rails) BUT the interior chrome luggage hooks at the rear of the cargo area are a bit rusted as are the small clips that appear to assist hold the front spoiler (under the radiator). This makes me think there could be a hidden suprise waiting under the wing mirrors :thumbsup:

Of greater concern is that this vehicle has different coloured reverse lights (one clear, on red) and I read a recent post that this was a trait of Japanese car from snowy regions, which I gather is not good re rust.

The dealer said they don't buy cars from North Japan (or was that only buy from the North).

Can anyone please confirm whether the different rear lenses is definitive re the car being from a rust prone area of the Land of the Rising Sun?

It really did look very rust free underneath etc, so should I be concerned or am I getting too paranoid in my old age :D

Cheers with Beers

Rust Hater

Edited by funkybits

From what you've said it sounds like it should be fine. I also have a small amount of surface rust on the luggage clips in the back. When I first got my car 4 years ago there were no signs of rust but it did develop in the mirrors at a later stage like many c34's will even if it isn't now. Don't let it put you off an othwise tidy car and the fix isn't that expensive anyway. Only way to bee 100% sure on any C34 is to pull the mirrors off and I don't think too many people would be happy to do that :thumbsup:

Frankly rust under the mirrors is probably the cheapest and easiest rectified issue you will find on C34 stageas.

I'd be much more concerned about the mechanical side of things.

And LOL! EVERY dealer buys EVERY car from city areas/southern Japan....Nobody ever buys from mountains/north....haha. Don't believe their bullshit believe what you see. Go off the car, not their stories.

Edited by floody
Cheers heaps for the replies guys as has reasured me somewhat & yep make sense to take the car at face value :thumbsup:

Sounds like first thing to do if I purchase is to take the door trims off and treat whatever rust is already there.

take it to an ultratune b4 you buy the car and get them to do a full inspection, only costs about $100 but then they will give you a big list of whats wrong with the car

well i suppose for an import they aren't the best choice but there are a lot around

i know a guy who runs one up on the gold coast near me and he knows a fair bit about imports, just comes down to whos running it

maybe take it to an import specialist and get them to look at it

You DIDNT just say that....

Im staying out of this one.

If the rust is too bad dont buy it, you can be guaranteed that there is alot of rust on the undercarriage etc.

Also have a look around the brakes and hubs I have had a mate that had his wheel studs sheer straight off because of excess rust.

True story.

Edited by dirtyRS4
Cheers heaps for the replies guys as has reasured me somewhat & yep make sense to take the car at face value :P

Sounds like first thing to do if I purchase is to take the door trims off and treat whatever rust is already there.

There seem to be quite a few Wagons come up for sale lately, if you have any doubts just keep looking until you find something you can be comfortable with.

And........the worst common areas I have seen for rust on these cars is around the front strut turrets. So, if it looks like repair or patch/respray work has been done in that area I would give it a miss. No hesitation.

My 2c

GW

why not look locally for one thats been lovingly looked after and with tastefull mods, cause when you get the car it will be probably be std and you will want to chuck thousands at it,and one red light is a fog light and i'd rather buy a car thats had fresh water over it rather than salt

ps little plug for local cars i might sell mine. :P

I just replaced my rear cradle and spent endless days cleaning, rust treatment and painting the rear end on the underside of mine.

Nissan was fairly good with sealing and putting underbody sealant from the front to the back end of the drive train tunnel, but around under the spare wheel is pretty poor.

The doors are easily fixed or replaced, but the body is the main concern. It is probably safe to say 70-80% of C34's have door rust. Most people just have not had a look yet to realise.

I would also check out local cars, as better bargins can be had and you can inspect them, even if you have to ship them from one side of OZ the the other

Sell you mine for $40K :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...