Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you sure of the date, my 3/'77 240K is the model earlier that the one in your pictures,

I thought '78 and onwards were the C210

but it is very clean.

Nigel

my C210 coupe was 8/77 vin no kmgc210000321

dont expect much from a stocker as far as handling/ stopping goes. but a set of springs , aftermarket airfilter and a better exhaust system and it would be just nice.(all stuff that can be reversed easily)

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

It's worth $5000 apparently. So far...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-2-do...53#ht_876wt_958

Can't believe someone owned it for 33 years and still thinks its a Nissan.

It's still a Nissan though, it has the badge on the boot.

Even though they have the Datsun Marque on the centre garnish.

I believe having Datsun on there was just so people wouldn't be like Nissan? WTF heaven't heard of them before.

Also, How can this be a 240K if its not C110 series, wasn't here a general consensus that 240K and C110 were the same thing.

Edited by Socrates

I reckon all the potential buyers of this car are probably on this forum. Problem is we all either dont have the room for it or have a lazy $5 grand sitting around ready to buy.

It's still a Nissan though, it has the badge on the boot.

Even though they have the Datsun Marque on the centre garnish.

I believe having Datsun on there was just so people wouldn't be like Nissan? WTF heaven't heard of them before.

Also, How can this be a 240K if its not C110 series, wasn't here a general consensus that 240K and C110 were the same thing.

C110 and C210s are both 240ks in OZ i have a lazy 5k laying around but really want a 110 not a 210 will watch it some more tho. And it would be bad for me to mod something like this, O and my 110 4 door is seating in front of my garage without sus and wheels lol

I have seen some adverting material from the UK and Europe for the C210 where the model is referred to as the 240k. Remember the owner is German, so it's probably a 240k as far as he is concerned. In Australia, the 240k is the c110, and in Japan they don't use the name 240k at all, the c110 is the Kenmari (after a popular advertising campaign) and the c210 the Skyline Japan (same reason).

The Nissan vs Datsun story that I heard was that Nissan badged international models as Datsuns for the export market. If Datsuns didn't fare well overseas no loss of face would be endured by Nissan in Japan.

Socrates, Did you know that if you pull the Datsun logo off your c210 centre garnish you'll find something far cooler underneath.

I reckon all the potential buyers of this car are probably on this forum. Problem is we all either dont have the room for it or have a lazy $5 grand sitting around ready to buy.

It's more than $5 grand as there is a bid of that on it and not reached reserve, so I'm going to have a stab in the dark and suggest this seller has got his hands on it cheap and is trying to cash in on it, or is selling on behalf of the owners. Either way, they're looking for a lot more than $5000.00 for it.

I'll keep an eye on it and see how it goes, but my problem is the room to put it.

Cheers, D

My finger's hovering over the bid button, but it took four years to pay off my damn credit card and I'm not sure I could cope with immediately going into debt again... on the other hand, it's soooooo pretty.

Also on the topic of 240k c210's I got an interesting answer from my mate Mario. Apparently the early (77) c210s came with Nissan documentation (owners manual etc) referring to the car as a 240k GL. He had an early c210 at one stage, and noted the other difference was that it had Datsun badges on the rear quarters instead of Skyline badges.

My finger's hovering over the bid button, but it took four years to pay off my damn credit card and I'm not sure I could cope with immediately going into debt again... on the other hand, it's soooooo pretty.

I could be mistaken... but there was a post here yesterday (and I can't remember who, not one of the usuals though) that suggested the reserve was twice the current bid (ie reserve $10K). The post isn't here now.  

JH

I think if this car was a C110 coupe, I'd be bidding on it.

If I was to buy it, I don't think I could leave it alone. I'd have to change a whole bunch of stuff just so I could drive it.

It's not even a C210 GT-EX or what ever the turbo'd L20 version was. That's more desirable IMHO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...