Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The RB26 and RB30 gaskets dont have the provisioning for the oil feed up front so the water gallery hole should match the block.

With the oil restrictors some people make them a little larger (from memory status suggested larger than 1.5mm) but i wouldn't be going any smaller.

wouldnt there be a small chance of the water damaging the head gasket if its hitting it directly over time?

so thats 1.5mm on each oil feed correct?

could i fab these up myself with some cylindrical copper/stainless lengths? what would the OD of it have to be?

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

A slapper, is slapped together, with the mind set of "She'll be right"

You're doing a rebuild.

im doing the bare minimum on this thing mate. pretty much the things that will worry me in the future, other than that its going straight together with parts ive got laying around.

wouldnt there be a small chance of the water damaging the head gasket if its hitting it directly over time?

so thats 1.5mm on each oil feed correct?

could i fab these up myself with some cylindrical copper/stainless lengths? what would the OD of it have to be?

Yes restrictors in both, however they are only ~$30 each premade. At the end of the day your time to fab them up yourself isnt worth it.

im doing the bare minimum on this thing mate. pretty much the things that will worry me in the future, other than that its going straight together with parts ive got laying around.

If you keep it below 6500RPM, and keep boost below 18PSi, she'll be sweet man.

Unless you're a thrasher, that goes out every weekend ripping massive 2nd and 3rd gear burnouts.

Even then still depending how you drive it'll hold together for a while. My setups, I'd have no issues running IF I were just driving around on the street and the occasional WSID meet. But mine ONLY lives at driving events... Hence, a hard hard life...

They're easy!

Why do people dread them so much? :S

theyre a pain in the ass without a decent high powered air tool set i've found. the block is still in the ute so i might just drive it over to a workshop.

If you keep it below 6500RPM, and keep boost below 18PSi, she'll be sweet man.

Unless you're a thrasher, that goes out every weekend ripping massive 2nd and 3rd gear burnouts.

Even then still depending how you drive it'll hold together for a while. My setups, I'd have no issues running IF I were just driving around on the street and the occasional WSID meet. But mine ONLY lives at driving events... Hence, a hard hard life...

i wont keep it below 6500 because this entire time ive had an rb30 i havent been able to enjoy it properly since the motor kept failing on me. im going to build this one with at least the minimum covered so i can use it for something other than something to swear at.

its officially started. ive stripped it down, just need to start ordering parts.

im still a bit iffy about using the stock rb30 oil pump.

If you want a cheap fix, and to avoid touching your old motor (To avoid court complications) go buy a second hand RB25DET, use the head off of it. Use the oil pump from it.

Gives you the harmonic balancer you need also.

i just centre punched the new location for the idler. ill rip the harmonic balancer off and get the old tensioner stud off tomorrow so i can get the right size studs and drill bit... might as well replace both.

ok a little update:

i drilled and tapped the new idler location, like r33 racer said its a 8.5mm drill bit and a M10x1.5 tap. tested and worked perfect. i drilled JUST into the water galley but the guide says if you seal it it'll be fine, you wont get the whole thread in if you dont go that deep anyway... picture time:

th_IMG_0506.jpg th_IMG_0507.jpg th_IMG_0511.jpg th_IMG_0509.jpg th_IMG_0516.jpg th_IMG_0514.jpg th_IMG_0515.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...