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  SECURITY said:
its officially started. ive stripped it down, just need to start ordering parts.

im still a bit iffy about using the stock rb30 oil pump.

rb30 oil pump has a matching narrow face steel inner gear for the drive. much more durable design over the sinterd 20/25/26 pumps. for a slapper id leave it alone. no crank collar or n1 pump. save you $800

  T04GTR said:
rb30 oil pump has a matching narrow face steel inner gear for the drive. much more durable design over the sinterd 20/25/26 pumps. for a slapper id leave it alone. no crank collar or n1 pump. save you $800

yep

  joe blo said:
whats the tightening order and torque settings and stages for putting the head on? im about to do mine. do you know them yet for when you do yours?

Count the head bolts down the head.

If it looked like for example

1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16

You would tighten in the order. 7,8,9,10,5,6,11,12,3,4,13,14,1,2,15,16

So from the middle, working evenly out. But you also have to stage them down.

So torque to from memory 30nm, then 90nm, then loosen it off to zero, torque to 110nm, then from memory tighten 90-115 degrees over that.

  SECURITY said:
looks like ill be installing a standard motor for now and slowing down on the rb30 for a while. i'll still be working on it but at a slower pace :)

Stop right now... Take that back... I've nearly done it myself, but you don't want to go from a 30 to a 25.

Why does the 30 need to take a break?

because im selling the car, keeping the f**ked motor and still suing the engine builder :down:

my next car will probably be something like an s15 which ill throw the rb30 into with a 26 head which is why i'll still work on it, but it wont be a priority.

ive already bought the motor. i've almost stripped all the accessories off the old one and transferred it to the new.

Edited by SECURITY

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