Jump to content
SAU Community

L20et


Gerry Giraffe
 Share

Recommended Posts

all I meant was that for the same price to get the L6 all jizzed up for drifting (bouncing of rev limiter all the time) you could get an RB doing the same, if not better for alot less. head porting and bigger valves would cost a tad under $1000 here in Oz. (I know as Ive looked into it.)

An rb can be had for $1000 complete with gearbox.

it is a bit of an unfair comparison though....

Your conversion idea has a sh!t load of holes in it!

After you buy the engine & gearbox for $1000.00 as you say, you have to fit it to the car??? It doesn't just fall in the engine bay and go. If it's going to be driven on the road it needs to be engineered (minimum $600.00) engine mounts, re engineer the gearbox mount, change the front half of tailshaft just to name a few. It's not as easy as you might think.

You talk with big ideas without checking your facts first. Do your homework and things might not go so badly in the future.

You don't think I know what it feels like?

D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your conversion idea has a sh!t load of holes in it!

After you buy the engine & gearbox for $1000.00 as you say, you have to fit it to the car??? It doesn't just fall in the engine bay and go. If it's going to be driven on the road it needs to be engineered (minimum $600.00) engine mounts, re engineer the gearbox mount, change the front half of tailshaft just to name a few. It's not as easy as you might think.

You talk with big ideas without checking your facts first. Do your homework and things might not go so badly in the future.

You don't think I know what it feels like?

D

This is why I turboed my L24, and didn't go with a RB, I didn't want to muck around with the engineering side of things, plus I do all my own work, and it would of been more of a issue to get it engineered. (I have no engineering ticket )

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I missing something? Turboing a car or putting another different motor into it requires an engineers certificate (well at least in Vic)

So if you use an L28 and turbo it, the cost of getting it engineered would be fairly similar to putting in an RB30ET.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I missing something? Turboing a car or putting another different motor into it requires an engineers certificate (well at least in Vic)

So if you use an L28 and turbo it, the cost of getting it engineered would be fairly similar to putting in an RB30ET.

The original question was about an L20et Vs an RB conversion?

Your right, any replacement engine bigger than 15%, although NSW RTA will allow an L24 replacement as the car came out with it in Aust, will need an engineers report if it is going to be driven on our roads.

MAGs comes out with "go the RB" because of costs, and most of us are suggesting staying with the L20et and making it work.

I would think, but not having done it, by letting it breath a little, the sky would be the limit with the only restriction being the 2.0L capacity. Maybe an N42 head would help (but need to check valve clearance to deck due to the 79mm bore) maybe change the AFM or do away with it completely and use an a/mkt ECU, or a piggy back to control fuel & ignition, change the turbo to a bigger T03, something a little more modern off the RB20 or 25 maybe, or the non intercooled FJ turbo and all this could be done progressively and not in one big hit.

As Stagefummer says 180rwkw is not impossible, as that's 240HP, a big increase on the stock 104Kw at the flywheel.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't necessarily need to be turbo either. You could replace the L20ET with a fuel injected balanced and generally tweaked high compression L28, and it would be reliable and fun to drive. Plus you get that awesome noise of 6 EFI trumpets sucking in air and fuel.

It would still require engineers though if you wanted it street legal :( (DOH!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got an F54 block with no engine number, so you can guess what it has now ..................... L20 so I don't need an engineer, but my motor has cost the earth.

Ross forged Pistons, Chromoly H Beam rods, ex USA cam, new rockers and springs, vernier cam gear, Kameari Chain & adjustable tensioner, P90 ported head with o/size exh valves, 380 injectors, etc etc etc and an R34 NEO turbo.

I'm looking at about 200rwkw & over 600nM torque going out through a modified stumpy gearbox and 3.9 R200 LSD.

Should be a fun thing to drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got an F54 block with no engine number, so you can guess what it has now ..................... L20 so I don't need an engineer, but my motor has cost the earth.

Ross forged Pistons, Chromoly H Beam rods, ex USA cam, new rockers and springs, vernier cam gear, Kameari Chain & adjustable tensioner, P90 ported head with o/size exh valves, 380 injectors, etc etc etc and an R34 NEO turbo.

I'm looking at about 200rwkw & over 600nM torque going out through a modified stumpy gearbox and 3.9 R200 LSD.

Should be a fun thing to drive.

*drool* That is alot of torque. :/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
    • Just did this job on my 32 with the boost doc kit. was quite simple to fit, hardest part was getting the rubber bungs back on the firewall. does anyone know how the heater will work now without the flap in the bend? Will I just have a heater on 24/7 now?
×
×
  • Create New...