Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

im looking at selling my r34 and buying a clean a4 quattro

was just after some tips from any people here that own/have owned one etc (i know its a long shot) on what to look for when inspecting one as im new to european cars. also if anyones had any bad/good experiences with them etc anything really

specifically i'm looking at the A4 Quattro "s" line which aparently has the same bodykit as the S4/RS4 or something :down:

thanks in advance :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307598-any-audi-a4-quattro-owners/
Share on other sites

Apologies in advance for this, but...

I was looking into B5 S4 avants or B6 A4 avants about a year ago and ended up buying an M35 stagea. Bigger, cheaper, faster and easier to find a good one.

I owned an E36 BMW a few years ago too, and servicing wasn't bad. Replaced the radiator, water pump etc and didn't cost too much. As with anything, just do your research and wait for a good one to come along.

try www.ozaudi.com - that's where i found a couple i was interested in, but in the end the stagea was a much better option. :)

Having owned and driven a few Audi's.

In comparison to your R34 the Audi A4 quattro is;

* A super boring car. (Thats ok if you just want something to get around in, without any thrill).

* Far slower in every environment except ice, snow or heavy rain.

* Expensive to maintain.

* Very expensive to modify.

* Build quality is on par with nissan (ok but, not jaw dropping) but, thier selection of interior materials is very poor in terms of UV resistance and wear.

* The fuel ecconomy is better, slightly.

* Is more comfortable to drive

* Is safer in a crash

Thats all I can think of at the moment.

i did all the factory training when i was an apprentice for Audi (among othe marques like nissan and honda) and found them to be very well built, reliable but expensive to modify and repair. i remmeber an a6 needing new cats and they were 2700 each :)

I have a B6 Quattro, have owned it for 3 years and moddifed it quite alot.

Full Revo stage 3+ turbo kit:

GT2871r Turbo

ATP Manifold

Electronic Boost Controller

Front Mount intercooler

3 inch stainless turbo back exhaust into Milltek twin system

New sachs clutch

New ECS tunning brakes (larger two piece discs) front and rear

ATP intake pipe

Forge Divertor Valve

BMC Air Intake

There is no S4 body kit, the S line is similar but not the same or there are (like mine) factory audi body kits which are called vortex kits.

They are not expensive to run or maintain at all, infact my GTR is mre expensive to maintain. My wife is currently driving the car and she averages 40-50,000km per year and it is a brilliant car.

i think there are major services to be done at 4years or 90,000km but if you go to an independant guy like Audvolks in Calyton Vic they are cheap and experts on maintaining these cars and brilliant to deal with.

The only thing to remember when modding them is that they will make decent power but it is not as easy to get as a skyline, and are limited as to the amount of power they will produce.

It is a pleasure to drive, safe, practical and cops don't even look twice. With the turbo kit it would eat a V8 S4 and uses less fuel. If I sold mine i would upgrade to an S4 and superchage it, the B6/7 is just a great car!

Ask away if you have any questions.

There are a number of options to modify a B6, try the following websites:

atpturbo

034motorsport

eurocode

ecstuning

Forums:

Audizine

Qzaudi

There are plenty of parts for these cars and extensively modded in the US.

Mine is making between 200-210 awkw depending on boost and is a ready nice car to drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...