Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So if a certain someone has an air flow meter from a different car that means he/she is in trouble?

Mark has your car got a genuine Nissan AFM ???

Answer ....YES !!!

I think 100% of police wouldn't know the diff.

Benm - are you going contest the pod filter ?? If so , I'd say you would have 100% of SAU-NSW behind you !

If you are sure, positive, confident that you are right about this - let us know. I'd love to see this go to court and win -

If it is a question of $$ - Maybe the collective lads on SAU could help out ?? I'd be into helping out !

Mark has your car got a genuine Nissan AFM ???  

Answer ....YES !!!

I think 100% of police wouldn't know the diff.

I agree, if it looks normal then they wouldn't even think to check it (they are lookin for a "pod filter") but if it had Nissan stamped on it then they would never know the difference unless they actually called Nissan and even then (as a Nissan Rep told me yesterday when I was at the local Nissan Shop) "To police would have to call us to find out if its factory or not (the Z32AFM). We dont know either because its an import and we dont have many/any technical details on imported Nissans only Australian delivered cars".

Benm - are you going contest the pod filter ?? If so , I'd say you would have 100% of SAU-NSW behind you !

After fitting my standard airbox on Monday (sooo much nicer to drive than a Pod Filter) I took my car to a blue slip mechanic in Sth Penrith on Tuesday to have the 'defect notice' cleared ($16.20). The conversation went similar to this:

Him: "What did you get defected for?"

Me: "They got me for my Pod Filter, can you tell me the ruling on Pod filters?"

Him: "Whatever the person infront of you says!"

Me: "Uh?"

Him: "Mate in my RTA book (that he uses to clear defects) it doesn't even say you have to have an air filter let alone what type of air filter you have!"

Me: "So whats wrong with my setup then? (ie; having a pod filter)"

Him: "Nothing, as I said you dont even need to have an air filter in place! Pink slips no air filter is needed, blue slips you must have the standard factory equipment"

Me: "My biggest problem is that everyone I talk to says something different except for the Blue Slip mechanics."

Him: "My suggestion to you is to write a formal complaint letter to the Police Commissioner of NSW and ask in writing for the correct ruling from him."

If I could get the 2 Blue Slip Mechanics, 1 Pink Slip Mechanic and 1 Police Officer to all put their opinions of this whole "pod filter" thing in writing to me i'd possibly write a letter as suggested above (and if i win i'd then write another letter demanding a refund for my $120 stock airbox as it wouldn't have been required if the police officer whom defected me got the ruling right in the first place, which I believe i'd be entitled to).

...but thats the least of my worries, right now its getting to the Summernats and back without getting done for my FMIC not being engineered. I *think* everything else is legal on my car, but then again depending on which police officer inspects my car my damn nissan floor mats could be illegal for all he cares :P

Guilty, blue slip is for cars that have not yet been registered, or have been out of rega for more than 3 months to make sure that they are ok to be registered engineering wise/adr approved! pink slips are the ones you get every year, less thorough for sure than blue slip! im sure there are more specific differences, i just dont know em :D

Benm, hope you didn't get done the way to the nats, i got done on the way to golbourne!

got canaried big time, then again the car is in bits while mods are being done! but the most stupid thing that these guys was

DEFECT ME FOR MY BATTERY IN ITS STANDARD POSITION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

now i have to relocate it and put it in a marine battery box, then run the ventilation out of the car!!! not real happy about this, also got done for the T wing, which i was told was ok since it doesn't go outside the sides of the car! Ridiculous effort on behalf of the police/rta , since they get me for things that are standard eg battery but fail to get me for the normal BOV, intercooler, pod (had UAS partition), tacho on a pillar etc etc -> just in case :D

no have to get this done before i go overseas this friday - like i dont have enough to do :(

end rant

Craved - I don't understand how they can defect you for the battery being in it's standard location ?

And you are saying now that you have to do something to the battery, even though it is stardard, and the car had been complied and registered like this ?

Who advised you of the venting and marine shroud thingo - the cop or a defect station - Something sounds off to me .....

Benm, hope you didn't get done the way to the nats, i got done on the way to golbourne!

Nope ! Drove past about 4 cop cars on the way down (they were attending an accident on the Federal Hwy where a car had gone off the side of the Hwy and was on its roof. I also passed about 4 Hwy Patrol cars on the way back to Sydney but they had already pulled cars over and were writing tickets etc.

DEFECT ME FOR MY BATTERY IN ITS STANDARD POSITION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mate thats bullshit. I seriously wouldn't even bother "fixing" that. Just go to your local Blue Slip mechanic and have a talk to him and explain that the battery is in the factory position and he will probably just sign it off.

Do you have to get a "partial" or a "full" inspection?

Benm - good to see you didn't have any problems with the Nats/cops etc. The last thing you want is to get defected while on holidays. Puts a real bummer on the trip.

Craved - you may have got a defect on the battery cause you don't have a sealed battery. Because the R33's have their battery in the boot, the battery MUST be of the sealed type. This may why you've been told to put your current battery in a marine air tight box with a ventilation hose.

Just change your battery to a sealed one and you'll be OK. I got a sealed big ass battery for $130 - not much more than you'd spend on a good marine box.

J

DEFECT ME FOR MY BATTERY IN ITS STANDARD POSITION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

now i have to relocate it and put it in a marine battery box, then run the ventilation out of the car!!! not real happy about this, also got done for the T wing, which i was told was ok since it doesn't go outside the sides of the car! Ridiculous effort on behalf of the police/rta , since they get me for things that are standard eg battery but fail to get me for the normal BOV, intercooler, pod (had UAS partition), tacho on a pillar etc etc -> just in case :)

end rant

You can buya a battery with a sealed area on top over the cells that has a hose that runs down the left side (looking from the rear) outside of the boot through a hole in the battery mount. This is legal and is as per the OEM configuration.

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong here, but perhaps the Police don't have anything about AFM mods in their big book 'o' naughties because technically it's an emissions issue, and would fall under the jurisdiction of the EPA?

Technically speaking, anything that is non-standard IS defectable. The defect is only an order to have the item checked by someone authorised to do so, so what varies is whether the defect will stick or not. You may well find that after being issued with a defect for something, the person who clears it will tell you there was no problem whatsoever. The cop isn't an engineer/mechanic though, so ge issues the defect when he suspects something is non-compliant.

Also, just one other thing that occurred to me regarding checking the tyre pressures of a vehicle that has booked you for speeding - surely if the tyre pressures of the vehicle which booked you are HIGHER than the prescribed 42psi, that means you were going even faster again than the Police vehicle's speedo would suggest?

Sorry if I've mentioned anything that's already been discussed, I did read almost all of the thread, but I'm a bit tired at the moment, so I might have missed something. :)

Technically speaking, anything that is non-standard IS defectable.  The defect is only an order to have the item checked by someone authorised to do so, so what varies is whether the defect will stick or not.  You may well find that after being issued with a defect for something, the person who clears it will tell you there was no problem whatsoever.  The cop isn't an engineer/mechanic though, so ge issues the defect when he suspects something is non-compliant.

This is true, but this is where the problem stands, where the mod may be totally within the EPA/RTA rules, but because the inspecting officer isn't sure if it is OK or not they get hit with a defect.

It wouldn't be such a problem if it was just the case of taking your car in to be inspected, but a lot of the time people are getting fines and/or loosing points for it as well - not to mention the cost of having the car inspected.

So it's not just the incoveinance of taking it in to be inspected, but it's also a financial incoveinance for (in some cases) the inspecting officer not knowing what is legal and what isn't.

J

Surely if the defect is ultimately proven not to be an actual defect, then any associated point loss/fine would not apply?

I know I've waxed lyrical about this before on numerous occasions, but it's just as important for us to know the rules as it is for the Police to know. Everyone should check out www.ajc13b.com and read the LAW section. Steve (the owner of the site) has assembled a heap of info, including, last I checked, the vehicle regulations which specify what is a defect (handy for those "no H-pattern on gearknob" type defects), a copy of the ADRs, and a lot of good advice we can use to arm ourselves with the knowledge required to make our lives as modified car owners a bit easier.

Just FYI for any QLDers reading this post, I know it is in the NSW section, here's what the rules are here in toad country:

Generally, the fitting and use of vehicle accessories (air pod) do not

require specific approval from Queensland Transport. As such, Queensland

Transport does not approve or disapprove the use of vehicle accessories.

However, Queensland Transport requires that vehicles continue to comply

with the standards set from when the vehicle is first supplied to the

market. Accordingly, the use of any aftermarket devices must not result in

deterioration of vehicle compliance with the applicable Australian Design

Rules.

The only regulation relating to air filters is contained in Queensland

Transport's Approved Inspection Station (AIS) Code Of Practice which states

that, "air cleaners must be fitted".

It is the responsibility of the driver of the vehicle to ensure that

emmisions levels are maintained.

It may be necessary to supply proof that the vehicle maintains the original

emmision levels.

If further clarification is required please phone our Vehicle

Modification's Unit on 3253 4851

As for the enquiry regarding general modiifications a modification brochure

"All about modifications to motor vehicles" is available at most CSC's and

can be accessed through our web site.

http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/qt/driver....difications.pdf

Ska

Richard, everyone seems to get told something different as to why the pod filter is supposedly illegal. The two most common ones in my experience are:

a). Because modifying the induction system means the vehicle's emissions may change (this is the most unlikely one, I'd say, simply because it's not illegal to put a panel filter in your stock airbox, the net result at the end is the same: more flow. I can't see how it would change your emissions in any appreciable way, either).

B). Noise pollution. No one can deny that a pod filter makes a heck of a lot of noise, and boxing a filter means it goes back to being quiet, like the car was when it left the factory (this is by far the most likely real reason for them being defectable, IMO).

I've never heard the fire hazard reason before though, I have to say. If it was an older car with a carby, then I can see how that would be so, seeing as the carby will often splutter fuel all over the filter, but on a modern car with the filter not even near the fuelling system, and not near any source of spark or flame, clearly that's hardly an issue.

Hmmm, I'm tempted to write a letter to the EPA to find out once and for all. This topic gets brought up way too often with no real resolution! :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...