Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas, thought I would post up a thread about my 4th and current car, and my 4th R31.

It's still the original RB20 redtop ECCS, just clicked over to 140,000km the other day. All this is copied straight from the 31 club because I cbf re-typing it all;

FMIC with 2.5" piping, K&N pod, catch can, Walbro fuel pump, 2.5" exhaust with a split pulse dump pipe and a single muffler on the rear and fairly new Splitfire coilpacks. Gearbox is a rebuilt R32 5 speed with a Jim Berry custom organic clutch, and diff has also been rebuilt with a Nismo 2-way LSD and 3.9:1 gears out of a 280ZX or something along those lines.

Front suspension is made up of Bilstein shocks with Espelir springs and a GTS-R strut brace. All the bushes in the front end have also been replaced recently with Super Pro stuff. Rear suspension is just KYB shocks with Espelir springs again. Front brakes are slotted R32 GT-R rotors with R33 GTS-t calipers and braided brake lines.

On the outside it's got a GTS-R front bar and rear spoiler. Wheels are 17x8 +34 and 17x9.5 +15 Drift Teks with 215/45 RE001's up front and 235/45 KU31's on the rear. It also has the rubber ADthree mudflaps as well. Inside it has GTS-R bucket seats, a Tomei 240km/h dash and a Pioneer stereo with Clarion splits, tweeters and 6" rear speakers.

A few pictures.

3-2Small.jpg

1Small.jpg

camera2788ipSmall.jpg

Since it's been in my ownership, I've replaced the rear pads and machined the rotors at work, wasn't much left;

Image210Small.jpg

I've replaced all the drive belts, fitted a rebuilt RB30 alternator I had lying around, upgraded the single core radiator to a new genuine Nissan twin-core radiator and new thermostat and it's running Toyota coolant (best shit ever)

Bought an Apexi Power Intake kit off eBay to replace the dirty K&N thing;

Image231Small.jpg

I've replaced both lower control arm assemblies because the ball joints had a bit of wear in them, and word is that pressing the old joints out or new ones in distorts the hole in the arm, and down the track you need to replace the whole lot anyway.

Image234Small.jpg

I found some new wheels I'll be picking up this month hopefully, only hiccup is that the fronts are only 5 stud, whilst the rears are 4 and 5. So I found me some of these;

Image0000Medium.jpg

Z31 turbo floating 5 stud front hubs. Direct bolt-on for R31 stubs, exact same bearings and dust seal. Only difference is that the Z31 hubs have around 5mm of extra track compared to a HR31 4 stud hub, but I'm not one to complain about free offset. Replaced the wheel bearings whilst I was there. Here's a before and after shot;

Image0001Medium.jpg

Image0007Medium.jpg

Just spaced the caliper out with a couple of washers;

Image0006Medium.jpg

Image0014Medium.jpg

Future plans at this stage are to work on the handling side of things, I took it for a cruise with the R31 club last weekend and it really disappointed me. Once my wheels are payed off, I'll be buying new swaybars front and rear (currently a group buy on custom 24mm solid swaybars, as opposed to the stock 24 or 25mm hollow bar) completely rebushing the rear end with new solid subframe bushes, link pin and D bushes and trailing arm bushes, and removing HICAS. I'm hoping that the combination of bigger swaybars, new bushes, no HICAS and around 60mm of extra front track over standard will have it handling quite a bit better. Anyway, cheers for reading, here's some more pictures.

19239_305083654208_758854208_355019.jpg

IMG_19261600x1200Small.jpg

IMG_19391600x1200Small.jpg

IMG_19971600x1200Small.jpg

IMG_20591600x1200Small.jpg

DSC02461Medium.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307699-lupes-hr31-gts-x/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Haha nah that was just a picture comparing the old pad to the new one. Eventually I'd like to fit some later model twin-piston rears as well, and they'll be rebuilt before they go on. I reckon it would look tough with an Autospoiler. I would prefer a functioning one over a fixed lip though because it scrapes coming into my driveway at the wrong angle now, so the lip would be off in no time if I can't flip it up.

Here's a picture of the new wheels;

4902P5120746.jpg

Work meshies, 17x8 +5 and 17x9 +11. Front will be effectively 0 offset with the Z31 front hubs, should sit rather flush I reckon, going to need a good guard roll. Main reason I wanted them is because they clear the GT-R brakes without spacers, they are good offset, and I love meshies The rears are going to sit in a little compared with the fronts, might put a slip on spacer on the rear just to even it out a bit.

Front dish;

IMG_2228.jpg

Rear dish;

IMG_2230.jpg

Edited by Lupes

LOL I think you're more keen to see them on than I am!

Picking the wheels up tomorrow, and also borrowing a guard roller from a member of the 31 club. Probably roll the guards tomorrow night and fit up the wheels Thursday at work with any luck.

Seriously not looking forward to the drive to Craigmore, hoping I miss peak hour.

Rolled the guards last night, went a little bit further than I would have liked but it's hardly noticeable unless you're up close. But so far no scrubbing which is a plus.

The front two wheels have a slight buckle in them, but I got them to balance up perfect at work and haven't had any vibrations as of yet up to around 80km/h, so they're already much better than the drift teks with the slip on spacers.

I can feel a definite difference in the way the car drives with the extra track, much more stable on the road, especially coming into a corner, I was pretty surprised actually how much difference more track makes.

Anyway, some pictures;

Image0019Medium.jpg

Image0024Medium.jpg

Image0023Medium.jpg

Caliper clearance;

Image0021Medium.jpg

Edited by Lupes

Rear needs to come down a bit, and nein to spacers, one of the reasons I bought these rims is because they clear the GT-R brakes without spacers, defeats the purpose if I put spacers on to make them more flush.

Edited by Lupes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...