Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Coolant Air Bleed Screw

DVS JEZ

By DVS JEZ,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The bleeder screw is a local high point with low points either side. That's why it is there. If you rely on the coke bottle in teh rad trick, you don't necessarily bleed the bubbles out of the spot where the bleed screw is.

FWIW, when I put the Neo into my car the bleed screw was comprehensively blocked up and need a solid bout of gynecology to open it up.

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...
KrayzieGTR Contributor

KrayzieGTR

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, sorry for another thread revival but i cant seem to find much info about the coolant/vacuum pipe where the coolant bleed screw is located. This was the best info i found so far so thought id ask ☺

I have my engine apart and have been cleaning, prepping spraying etc everything. A mate helped me sand blast alot of different pipes and brackets along the way and i believe there now might be a small amount of sand inside this tube. I just wanted to know how bad this could potentially be and what would be the best way to clear it all out?

Any tips and info about the pipe would be very appreciated. Cheers

KrayzieGTR Contributor

KrayzieGTR

Posted
Posted

Cheers Ben, from what i can tell its just a coolant and vacuum pipe and was just going to blow it out thoroughly with comp air or somthing.

Does anyone know what the valve/rattle is for?

  • 6 years later...
Predator1 Rising Star

Predator1

Posted
Posted
On 21/09/2015 at 5:04 PM, GTSBoy said:

Skinny flat blade screwdriver, poking wire, cursing and swearing. Some tantrum & jumping around too IIRC.

Getting it off is as you say.

I thought I'd chime in. Had the same issue. Going to put a swirl pot but nothing came out of the bleed nipple. It was filled with gunk. I cleaned out but still no luck. I shone a bridght LED torch and it looked super clean.Was scratching my head then it clicked...It must have a port on the side which we cant see.

So, I had some thick wire(welding filler rod). I bent about 2mm off the tip.. shoved it up the hole and twisted it around like i was f**king a whore... I can confirm that there is a hole inside the bleed screw hole, at the bottom. It took about 2-3 mins of poking, and in between spraying brake cleaner to get the crap out.. After i broke through, i cleaned it out as much as poss, and it all works. Water started pouring out when i started the car. 

Hopefully this info will help others, as I couldn't find this level anywhere.

PS - Excuse the mspaint skills. Hopefully it makes sense.

bleed hole.png

IMG_0855.JPEG

IMG_0854.JPEG

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • Kinkstaah
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • Kinkstaah
      First time Skyline owner

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • Kinkstaah
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...