Jump to content
SAU Community

Standard Gtr Garrett Turbos Rb26 Are They Standard

GTR Grey Ghost

By GTR Grey Ghost,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR Grey Ghost Enthusiast

GTR Grey Ghost

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys and Gals, bought these turbos second hand however they appear to have different exhaust wheels than that of a mates R34, these have more fins on the exhaust, how can I tell if they are metal or upgraded wheels?

Here are some photos

post-64397-1266139090_thumb.jpg

post-64397-1266139116_thumb.jpg

GTR Grey Ghost Enthusiast

GTR Grey Ghost

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i magnet comes to mind to test for metal...

Cheers mate, did not think of something as simple as a magnet, turns out that the exhaust wheel is definately ceramic as with the nut holding it together, what are your thoughts about fitting these out with metal wheels and 360 degree thrust bearing?

Can I then run a couple pounds boost above the 1 bar currently?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Hi there, can you elaborate, "a bugger if non ferrous metal" ?? cheers

non-ferrous metals are not magnetic.

They are just trying to correct me about my magnet comment :)

However, given we are talking turbos (without inconel and so on), the magnet is applicable as stated.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

GTR Grey Ghost Enthusiast

GTR Grey Ghost

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

GTR Grey Ghost Enthusiast

GTR Grey Ghost

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi there, thank you for taking the time and providing me a solution with another brand over Garrett, however without disregarding what I have learnt here can you advise me if there is any Garrett Turbo Charger as a direct replacement over standard which would provide minimal lag and alternative over HKS etc The question may be asked why........? the only answer being I want to keep the old girl fairly original (a change for me) as in original brand name parts to achieve a better result and achieve reliability. Turbo's to still be Garrett, what would the model number should I source, appreciate your help, cheers

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted (edited)

Grey Ghost the 707160-9 is made by Garrett for HKS , all HKS do is get them from Garrett without the Garrett wastegate actuator and supply their own higher rated ones .

707160-9 , Garrett turbo for a Garrett price .

Why better than std units ? More modern wheels and a lower friction longer lasting bearing system .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...