Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and Gals, bought these turbos second hand however they appear to have different exhaust wheels than that of a mates R34, these have more fins on the exhaust, how can I tell if they are metal or upgraded wheels?

Here are some photos

post-64397-1266139090_thumb.jpg

post-64397-1266139116_thumb.jpg

i magnet comes to mind to test for metal...

Cheers mate, did not think of something as simple as a magnet, turns out that the exhaust wheel is definately ceramic as with the nut holding it together, what are your thoughts about fitting these out with metal wheels and 360 degree thrust bearing?

Can I then run a couple pounds boost above the 1 bar currently?

Hi there, can you elaborate, "a bugger if non ferrous metal" ?? cheers

non-ferrous metals are not magnetic.

They are just trying to correct me about my magnet comment :)

However, given we are talking turbos (without inconel and so on), the magnet is applicable as stated.

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

Hi there, thank you for taking the time and providing me a solution with another brand over Garrett, however without disregarding what I have learnt here can you advise me if there is any Garrett Turbo Charger as a direct replacement over standard which would provide minimal lag and alternative over HKS etc The question may be asked why........? the only answer being I want to keep the old girl fairly original (a change for me) as in original brand name parts to achieve a better result and achieve reliability. Turbo's to still be Garrett, what would the model number should I source, appreciate your help, cheers

Grey Ghost the 707160-9 is made by Garrett for HKS , all HKS do is get them from Garrett without the Garrett wastegate actuator and supply their own higher rated ones .

707160-9 , Garrett turbo for a Garrett price .

Why better than std units ? More modern wheels and a lower friction longer lasting bearing system .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...