Jump to content
SAU Community

Damo's R32 Gts-r, On Going Project Fun Car. History And Use Full Info


Recommended Posts

Thanks for the positive comments guys.

best thing about pictures is they hide all the dodgy bits. its far from immaculate.

just incase people haddent pick up on it the black car isnt my car it just has some of my bits on it. this seemed to confuse the hell out of people at the Tas drift festival on the weekend. it kinda looked like my car and the owner of it and i used to be team mates so they didnt know whos it was. ive been getting complements for building it and Steve has been getting offeres to buy it.

proves to me that all you need is some tuff wheels (weather they fit right or not) and a tuff exhaust note. (helped by a screamer pipe) and people love it. we had people looking over the car all weekend. to us its a pig compared to what we usualy work on so its a surprise to see the reactions. we were like "havent you ever seen a real car before" but i think there is a certan look that a drift pig generates. the ill fitting body work. rattle can painted pannels. tuff unfitting wheels. tuff and rugged sounding engine and then seeing some one drive it on the limmit for 40-50 secconds without holding back for fear of braking somthing.

Update for my own car. :)

brought a turbo and manifold today. second hand off some dodgy bloke i know. said it was like new and stuff.

anyway its in the GT30 range. no one really cares.

what does matter is ill have Gate soon enough. hahaha

manifold looks like this.

mani2.jpg

mani1.jpg

for the haters, yes its a T4 flange with a T3 adapter. I had a ebay special a while back and the runner size and quality is much grater than the ebay job. this manifold also takes the Tial 44mm Vband gate or turbo smart 45mm Vband.

Tial have just relised a water cooled version of the 44mm gate but i dont think ill be trying to over complicate the setup just yet.

also after many weeks waiting for a parcel all the way from Melbourne i got these.

redtopcovers.jpg

RB20 red top cam covers. after seeing them used in a workshops demo car in HPI a while ago these became cooler than smashing the back out of a 18yo. i got these at the right price but im not sure if they are somthing ill use or on sell.

my current cam covers have Mines style cam baffeles welded in them. you cant buy a direct fit part so i had a look at the design and figured it wansnt to hard to emulate using the rb25det covers.

DSC02038copy.jpg

DSC02037.jpg

all in all its a good days buying. haha.

RB20 red top cam covers. after seeing them used in a workshops demo car in HPI a while ago these became cooler than smashing the back out of a 18yo. i got these at the right price but im not sure if they are somthing ill use or on sell.

we all know 18 is waaay to old for you, i found this pic of you from the weekend

pedobear-scores.jpg

That manifold actually looks quite good compared to some of them ive seen.

Haven't seen you in a while Damo, I'll have to come check out some of your handy work.

for sure. still at the new house. i think you have been there once before. most friday nights we have a drinks night if you want to pop over and talk crap

Pfffffffffffffftttttttttttt. r33 brakes arent worth looking at.

i actiualy have r34 gtt brakes for any one that may have miss read it. good upgrade.

Friday night super special resulted in this.

24092010028.jpg

24092010030.jpg

24092010031.jpg

this is a donor GTR bar ready for hectic modding.

23092010020.jpg

and ive finaly finished the front work wheels. last part i was waiting on was getting all the bolts Zink coated. and while i was waiting i sparyed all the nuts matte black to match the rear.

the bolts had to be acid dipped twice to get the Zink to stick and to my plesant surprise the acid dipping revealved work writing on the. you can reall see in these pic thoe.

from this

DSC03118.jpg

to this

24092010021.jpg

24092010022.jpg

24092010024.jpg

now to get tyres fitted and try them on. then remover and repeat for the rears.

  • 3 weeks later...

been getting a bit done week by week. please excuse the phone pics. if youd like clearer pics ill go back to a normal camera but its way more eficent for me to use a phone camera.

got tyres fitted to the front works rims and fitted them. im very happy with the fitment. this pic is not a good example.

07102010048.jpg

Started back into my drift car.

ive had to make a new front reo bar. i used an old bent one and unstiched all the bits i didnt want. on the left is what i started with and on the right is what i was left with

11102010053.jpg

i have a GTR cooler and i use the top standard mounts to mount it to the reo bar so i had to weld on some brackets

11102010056.jpg

than after some initial test fitting i found it was to low in the middle and it covered to much of the cooler so i made it do this

12102010061.jpg

and that made it look like this

11102010058.jpg

painted up ready to roll

17102010065.jpg

A few weeks back i got a hold of a S14 sub frame to comepare pick up points. this is some of the results

28092010038.jpg

28092010039.jpg

the front mount has been cut off the r32 item but the silver bar projects where it would have been. the front pick up of the s14 frame is substancialy lower.

i then stripped out the inside of the car once again. im hoping to tidy it up once and for all and never have to pull it apart again. its a real squez to get the full dash pad out with the cage in. im hoping to also de-loom the engine bay as i do this for other people but have never bothered to toutch my own car.

17102010067.jpg

then i decided to start cutting the floor up ready for the new dump pipe im building. the point where the dump pipe is at its lowest under the passenger foot well has always been to low on my car and i plan on going to a bigger diamiter dump pipe so cutting the floor seemed like a good option. So far the only hassel has been some of the extra body work stiched in to that area for the gearbox cross member but i will weld in something that will be stronger than the original anyway. i am also planning on cutting and boxing the section at the back of the passenger seat so i can run a straight pipe from the firewall back with only a mild kink up and out at the back.

17102010068.jpg

it may seem like a fair hassel but ive been over plenty of ripple strips and the exhaust cops a hiding and this movement can cause all sorts of problems futher back on the turbo side as far as cracking manifolds and studs ect that could end a good days racing. so i file it under a reliability thing rather than time waste.

Edited by DJRIFT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...