Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Folks,

I was wondering if one of the hotshot engine builders on here would give me some advice. Im in the process of doing my very first full/ground up engine build and im having some issues with oil clearances. I am using plastigague as a measuring tool and I want to double check im doing it correctly. The plastigauge "splat" matched up to the card between 0.050mm and the 0.038mm marks giving me an estimated clearance of around 0.046mm (ish) do i then divide that figure by 2 to give me the actual clearance of 0.023mm? IE: Bang on the Nissan spec of 0.022-0.046 mm??

Or is my actual clearance 0.046 (ie: on the very limit of the OEM specs)

I think im right that the plastigauge figure has to be divided by two to account for the two oil surfaces (one on each side of the crank) but i just want to be 100% sure.

I measured the BE bearing and that came out at dead on 0.050mm which if i divided it by 2 would be bang on spec, but if it's not then i think im way out.

The engine is an R32 RB26DETT with a brand new ACL standard size bearings. Crank has been polished and nothing else.

Cheers

Chris

Edited by Guishnu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309592-rb26dett-oil-clearance-question/
Share on other sites

If your engine is upside down the crank is fully rested against the bearing material on the low side so your measuring the clearance on the high side (sum of both clearances) no need to divide by 2.

That said i no longer (since i was an apprentice) use plastigage as it is not precise enough, it will often read tighter than it actually is giving you a loose engine. A mic is the only way to go TBH

see stolen interwebs picture.

post-34927-1267055244_thumb.jpg

mic first...plasti second.

yep thats right...i measure twice...using each method.

I know of an engine that failed very recently that would have been saved if the builder used this method, as the plastigage would have picked up the huge error in his micrometer.

its just a good double check of the micrometer measurements and its not as inaccurate as one may think if used correctly.

mic first...plasti second.

yep thats right...i measure twice...using each method.

I know of an engine that failed very recently that would have been saved if the builder used this method, as the plastigage would have picked up the huge error in his micrometer.

its just a good double check of the micrometer measurements and its not as inaccurate as one may think if used correctly.

Not disagreeing with you here Paul, and anything that works for you has gotta be a good thing as you build a mean engine.

The example you provided with the micrometer having an error? If measured properly and the micrometer calibrated correctly and the engineer all doing their job correctly, any error in a micrometer can be picked up without needing plasti gauge to back it up.

If you use the same micrometer for the journal measurement as you do for the tunnel measurement, the micrometer doesn't even have to be accurate, it just has to be consistent.

Not disagreeing with you here Paul, and anything that works for you has gotta be a good thing as you build a mean engine.

The example you provided with the micrometer having an error? If measured properly and the micrometer calibrated correctly and the engineer all doing their job correctly, any error in a micrometer can be picked up without needing plasti gauge to back it up.

If you use the same micrometer for the journal measurement as you do for the tunnel measurement, the micrometer doesn't even have to be accurate, it just has to be consistent.

Using just plastigage and nothing else is folly in the extreme...i understand exactly what you were saying and also what you have just said above. Im assuming the tunnels and the journals must have been measured on different equipment or even different days? It didn't sound right to me but that was the excuse he provided to the customer.

A quick check of mic. calibration with the setting bars is also a good idea each time it is pulled out of the case as well.

the engine in question had a huge knock on startup...big mistake that could have been easily picked up.

Edited by DiRTgarage
mic first...plasti second.

yep thats right...i measure twice...using each method.

I know of an engine that failed very recently that would have been saved if the builder used this method, as the plastigage would have picked up the huge error in his micrometer.

its just a good double check of the micrometer measurements and its not as inaccurate as one may think if used correctly.

Not a bad comparo, some one pm'd it to me today (mirrored what i was saying earlier)

http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_0701_p...eter/index.html

I'll pull out the crank, clean, replace and re-check the measurements.

If the big end clearances are too big, can i get a few thou machined off the cap face to tighten them up? Same with the main bearing gurdle?

I'll pull out the crank, clean, replace and re-check the measurements.

If the big end clearances are too big, can i get a few thou machined off the cap face to tighten them up? Same with the main bearing gurdle?

Lol

Never mind - I know milling the caps isn't possible.

I’m even more retarded then usual (but it's always good to make 110% sure!)

Oil Clearances

Mains

OEM Standard Bearings 0.028mm ~ 0.046mm / 0.0011” ~ 0.0018” with a limit of 0.090mm/0.0035”

Big Ends

OEM Standard Bearings 0.020mm ~ 0.039mm / 0.0007” ~ 0.0015” with a limit of 0.090mm/0.0035”

My mains are running 0.046mm/0.0018” (aprox)

My big ends are running 0.050mm/0.0020” (aprox)

So I’m golden.

Few.

Edited by Guishnu

Any comments. Machining your crank, Measuring up your bearings to your exact chosen spec's, after then, bolting on your sump, then bolting on the head with let's say with a multi layered steel shimmed head gasket. Any changers to your bearing measurement's after this process?

  • 2 months later...
Thread revival!

Where in the bearing tunnel is the best spot to measure for clearance?

Should the caps be torqued up with out the crank inplace or...?

put in your bearings, then mains caps, girdle and bolts that you will use (torques down). measure each main tunnel. U can measure at different spots on each tunnel. at say 12 and 6, 2 and 8, 4 and 10 o'clock etc.then measure up each journal of the crank. If the clearances are too big then you can get the caps machined down and the block line bored again to a size that is more appropriate.

Edited by GTR1993

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...