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It is a little more that a Chinese unit, but they use great core's, workmanship is of high quality and a full custom radiator for just over $700 ain't too bad IMO.

PLUS I still have my old one which you can take to the to use as a template (to in-tank trans though - it is in my current radiator)

68c

I guess you were looking at a US site?

The Mishimoto VQ35 thermostat opens at 62c... which causes all kinds of issues for our cars, doesn't it Scott!

There are a few of us running the Nismo units with no issues whatsoever. Mine has been in for over a year and a half with no concerns :down:

What was the difference in average running temp once you went to the Nismo, Cam?

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What was the difference in average running temp once you went to the Nismo, Cam?

Andy would probably be the better one to ask for a figure Dale, I can only go by the stock gauge which is a little lower than when using the stock thermostat.

Of course if I had an Informeter, I would have a figure for you - thus referring the question to Andy (as he brings this thread back on topic :down: )

I didn't really have the Informeter on my car till after I changed the Thermostat BUT I put the Informeter on Iain's car and for the same sort of driving his car ran about 5-8 degrees warmer from memory.

8 deg is a worthwhile difference, might have to do a bit of research once I have my "christmas" informeter. The weather will be conducive to a definitive result by then.

lol christmas informeter.

Andy are you running an after market radiator(sorry if i missed that)

http

;) /www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-low-temp-the...at-rb-vg-10002

only one i could find. doesnt say anything for our engine.

try this mob (but I noticed it is on back order)

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/produ...307dc078d2d7484

Cheers

Andy

i thought i'de just have to give them the car and they make and install. using the one in the car as a template. i'm not too comfortable with doing something like the radiator by myself. i know it isnt a big job. but still new too it i dun wanna f**k anything up.

i duno it was a Nismo official site though. i wouldve thought if it was american they wouldve outlined temps in farenheit(or however its spelt) but they said 'C'

$700.00 for a radiator(for our car) i would be happy with. cant find anything for our cars easily or cheap .. whats IMO lol

how much were the nismo thermostats and were they easy to source ?

i got a chinese knock off that was complete alloy very thick core from ebay for $212 delivered for the r33 (which worked awesome btw and looked great) - sure ok the r33 is as common as dogs balls but -

surely someone out there does a g35/v35 similar radiator?

ebay is your friend for this stuff :-check it

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Infiniti+...ator&_rdc=1

aaron - IMO - in my opinion.

Edited by PetroDola
how much were the nismo thermostats and were they easy to source ?

i got a chinese knock off that was complete alloy very thick core from ebay for $212 delivered for the r33 (which worked awesome btw and looked great) - sure ok the r33 is as common as dogs balls but -

surely someone out there does a g35/v35 similar radiator?

ebay is your friend for this stuff :-check it

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Infiniti+...ator&_rdc=1

aaron - IMO - in my opinion.

1. see the link in my previous post for the Nismo thermostat (ebay motors may have them also for 350z)

2. We have covered it in another thread, but be very mindful when getting a radiator from the US. They state "Z33/G35" but they not the same item. You NEED a G35 unit and NOT a Z33 (unless you are willing to get it modified)

Z33/G35 radiators from China appear to be pretty close to ours. when i say pretty close, i mean nothing like ours :)

A Z33 unit needs PLENTY of modding, a G35/V35 doesnt need much at all. best bet is to get one with the transmission loop already in it.

That said, it will fit with some cutting of the radiator support. its soft as shit, using a hacksaw blade and my hand did all the hard work on mine.

also, my water pump/viscous fan is poo. temps hit 98 on the freeway, and slowly dropped to 82ish and back up and hung around 90. too weird for me. Im going new pump and trying another fan clutch i think!

Z33/G35 radiators from China appear to be pretty close to ours. when i say pretty close, i mean nothing like ours sad.gif

A Z33 unit needs PLENTY of modding, a G35/V35 doesnt need much at all. best bet is to get one with the transmission loop already in it.

That said, it will fit with some cutting of the radiator support. its soft as shit, using a hacksaw blade and my hand did all the hard work on mine.

also, my water pump/viscous fan is poo. temps hit 98 on the freeway, and slowly dropped to 82ish and back up and hung around 90. too weird for me. Im going new pump and trying another fan clutch i think!

good to know!

so you actually got one in the end ?

yeah mate i did

had to have it modded slightly - thanks to jetwreack for organising that - to get it similar enough to the stock one.

ill install over the xmas break

might buy a water pump while its all off too. im worried soething is wrong, car hit 104 yesterday in 29degree temps with the AC on :(

might buy a water pump while its all off too. im worried soething is wrong, car hit 104 yesterday in 29degree temps with the AC on :(

That water temp does seem high. When you have this sort of temp is your factory gauge also higher than normal?

I recon you probably still have a small air lock in the water system. It is a bitch to bleed.

Cheers

Andy

when you bleed it .. are you also letting off the radiator cap and the bleed valve in that order? bearing in mind they both hold air!

otherwise the trapped air in the top tank.. just feeds back into the block creating another air trap and around in circles you go. hehe. until the 10th time the air is finally gone.

best to run it with the rad cap off until it hits thermostat temp youll notice from the water starting to rush in the top tank also..another trick i learnt from working at a radiator shop..is youve got another radiator core most people forget about.. the heater.. so turn the heater on whilst running it with the rad cap off to refill that heater core and the water level will drop again fill it to the top.. recap it... then do the bleed valve for any excessive air.

you can as i did let it run for a good 45 minutes just idling with no radiator cap on.

refill at the end..then bleed valve until you see no spurts of air just water. then reseal with the heater on of course.. and youll find theres no more air and a filled tank that shouldnt drop ever unless its leaking or natural evap that draws from the overflow.

Edited by PetroDola

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