Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is a little more that a Chinese unit, but they use great core's, workmanship is of high quality and a full custom radiator for just over $700 ain't too bad IMO.

PLUS I still have my old one which you can take to the to use as a template (to in-tank trans though - it is in my current radiator)

68c

I guess you were looking at a US site?

The Mishimoto VQ35 thermostat opens at 62c... which causes all kinds of issues for our cars, doesn't it Scott!

There are a few of us running the Nismo units with no issues whatsoever. Mine has been in for over a year and a half with no concerns :down:

What was the difference in average running temp once you went to the Nismo, Cam?

  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

What was the difference in average running temp once you went to the Nismo, Cam?

Andy would probably be the better one to ask for a figure Dale, I can only go by the stock gauge which is a little lower than when using the stock thermostat.

Of course if I had an Informeter, I would have a figure for you - thus referring the question to Andy (as he brings this thread back on topic :down: )

I didn't really have the Informeter on my car till after I changed the Thermostat BUT I put the Informeter on Iain's car and for the same sort of driving his car ran about 5-8 degrees warmer from memory.

8 deg is a worthwhile difference, might have to do a bit of research once I have my "christmas" informeter. The weather will be conducive to a definitive result by then.

lol christmas informeter.

Andy are you running an after market radiator(sorry if i missed that)

http

;) /www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-low-temp-the...at-rb-vg-10002

only one i could find. doesnt say anything for our engine.

try this mob (but I noticed it is on back order)

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/produ...307dc078d2d7484

Cheers

Andy

i thought i'de just have to give them the car and they make and install. using the one in the car as a template. i'm not too comfortable with doing something like the radiator by myself. i know it isnt a big job. but still new too it i dun wanna f**k anything up.

i duno it was a Nismo official site though. i wouldve thought if it was american they wouldve outlined temps in farenheit(or however its spelt) but they said 'C'

$700.00 for a radiator(for our car) i would be happy with. cant find anything for our cars easily or cheap .. whats IMO lol

how much were the nismo thermostats and were they easy to source ?

i got a chinese knock off that was complete alloy very thick core from ebay for $212 delivered for the r33 (which worked awesome btw and looked great) - sure ok the r33 is as common as dogs balls but -

surely someone out there does a g35/v35 similar radiator?

ebay is your friend for this stuff :-check it

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Infiniti+...ator&_rdc=1

aaron - IMO - in my opinion.

Edited by PetroDola
how much were the nismo thermostats and were they easy to source ?

i got a chinese knock off that was complete alloy very thick core from ebay for $212 delivered for the r33 (which worked awesome btw and looked great) - sure ok the r33 is as common as dogs balls but -

surely someone out there does a g35/v35 similar radiator?

ebay is your friend for this stuff :-check it

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Infiniti+...ator&_rdc=1

aaron - IMO - in my opinion.

1. see the link in my previous post for the Nismo thermostat (ebay motors may have them also for 350z)

2. We have covered it in another thread, but be very mindful when getting a radiator from the US. They state "Z33/G35" but they not the same item. You NEED a G35 unit and NOT a Z33 (unless you are willing to get it modified)

Z33/G35 radiators from China appear to be pretty close to ours. when i say pretty close, i mean nothing like ours :)

A Z33 unit needs PLENTY of modding, a G35/V35 doesnt need much at all. best bet is to get one with the transmission loop already in it.

That said, it will fit with some cutting of the radiator support. its soft as shit, using a hacksaw blade and my hand did all the hard work on mine.

also, my water pump/viscous fan is poo. temps hit 98 on the freeway, and slowly dropped to 82ish and back up and hung around 90. too weird for me. Im going new pump and trying another fan clutch i think!

Z33/G35 radiators from China appear to be pretty close to ours. when i say pretty close, i mean nothing like ours sad.gif

A Z33 unit needs PLENTY of modding, a G35/V35 doesnt need much at all. best bet is to get one with the transmission loop already in it.

That said, it will fit with some cutting of the radiator support. its soft as shit, using a hacksaw blade and my hand did all the hard work on mine.

also, my water pump/viscous fan is poo. temps hit 98 on the freeway, and slowly dropped to 82ish and back up and hung around 90. too weird for me. Im going new pump and trying another fan clutch i think!

good to know!

so you actually got one in the end ?

yeah mate i did

had to have it modded slightly - thanks to jetwreack for organising that - to get it similar enough to the stock one.

ill install over the xmas break

might buy a water pump while its all off too. im worried soething is wrong, car hit 104 yesterday in 29degree temps with the AC on :(

might buy a water pump while its all off too. im worried soething is wrong, car hit 104 yesterday in 29degree temps with the AC on :(

That water temp does seem high. When you have this sort of temp is your factory gauge also higher than normal?

I recon you probably still have a small air lock in the water system. It is a bitch to bleed.

Cheers

Andy

when you bleed it .. are you also letting off the radiator cap and the bleed valve in that order? bearing in mind they both hold air!

otherwise the trapped air in the top tank.. just feeds back into the block creating another air trap and around in circles you go. hehe. until the 10th time the air is finally gone.

best to run it with the rad cap off until it hits thermostat temp youll notice from the water starting to rush in the top tank also..another trick i learnt from working at a radiator shop..is youve got another radiator core most people forget about.. the heater.. so turn the heater on whilst running it with the rad cap off to refill that heater core and the water level will drop again fill it to the top.. recap it... then do the bleed valve for any excessive air.

you can as i did let it run for a good 45 minutes just idling with no radiator cap on.

refill at the end..then bleed valve until you see no spurts of air just water. then reseal with the heater on of course.. and youll find theres no more air and a filled tank that shouldnt drop ever unless its leaking or natural evap that draws from the overflow.

Edited by PetroDola

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...