Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

you dont NEED them to run the device, but if you want those two thing monitored then youll need the sensors too.

the rest of the stuff is taken from teh ECU. to have exact water temp there all the time, IMO its well worth its money. dont want to overheat in these summer temps. there are only limited spare VQ25DETs

Question guys - I'm thinking of getting one of these. Will I need the Boost sensor as well as the oil temp sensor too?

I'll be running both of these on mine in the next little while, mainly so I don't have to run a separate boost gauge; keeps everything neat.

I'll be using the oil temp probe in the gearbox to monitor auto temp :thumbsup:

You could run two sensors and switch between them... If the sensors weren't $200 each I would have that one also. For the oil temp and oil pressure you will need an oil filter adapter or oil cooler kit like the Greddy one that has threads for the sensors.

What do you have to do to have the Power (PS) display functioning? I've put in the vehicle type (Nissan), body type (wagon), weight (1800kg), am I missing something?

Apparently my car produces Zero power :rolleyes: . Everything else I've displayed so far appears to work except this one, rather curious.

Any help would be great :thumbsup:

You need to include motor size

weight - 1,800kg's

motor - 2.5lt

type - swagon

driver - Awesommmmmmeeee!!!!!

didn't know about the gear ratio's....what are our's again?

Yeah, I did all that when I set it up originally, not sure why it's not playing the game. Maybe I'll just go through it again

Driver; well that's a given; right?:cheers:

Where do you alter the gear ratio's? Is that in the "offset" bit?

Thanks guys.

i cant remember, i just followed what the book says, it says to input your speed at a certain amount of rev in each gear. i dont know what its called i just called it gear ratioteehee.gif

Ok, I'll have to have a read...

  • 4 weeks later...

I have a new stock radiator and thermostat as well as a 1st generation Informeter.

Unless I'm really pushing it the temp sits at 90c in summer.

Hume highway from Picton to Moss Vale at 120ish up the hills on a 30+ day might get to 94c.

Pushing up twisty hills in the RNP produces similar results.

A more general Informeter question....

I've got the airbag light flashing at the moment, but the diagnostic code readout on the Informeter is reading '0'

Anyone know if it's possible to get the codes to display?

Or is it a case of the cars different ECU's not talking to each other and the Informeter can only display codes from the engine management?

A more general Informeter question....

I've got the airbag light flashing at the moment, but the diagnostic code readout on the Informeter is reading '0'

Anyone know if it's possible to get the codes to display?

Or is it a case of the cars different ECU's not talking to each other and the Informeter can only display codes from the engine management?

Id try the error code readout sequence (wait 3, accelerator pump etc etc) , that may give you code for the error - but I was never able to get a code for why mine was flashing. Ive recently connected one of the seat sensors to the passenger side (drivers side has a resistor in place of the sensor) and performed the reset sequence. Seems to be holding.

Id check you have the plugs under your seat if you've always had the light flashing!

Not the informeter, there is no input for it. I do all my logging with the Emanage Ultimate, wideband included, then I send the log to my tuner who rings me back and tells me if I need a re-tune after each mod. lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...