Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Im selling my 1996 R33 GTST.

Mods I have done include the following:

Exterior

-18 Inch Rims w/ 265s Rear 235s Front

-400R Front Bar

-400R Side Skirts

-Trial Rear Bar

Interior

-Boost Gauge/Water Temp Gauge

- Headunit with MTX Speakers

-3 Point alarm with all the fruit

-Nismo shift nob

Performance

- Front/Dump pipe as well as 100cell high flow cat

-Turbotech Boost Controller

-Just Jap Stealth Intercooler

-Splitfire Coilpacks

-NPC Clutch/Lightweight Flywheel

-New pod filter with box (cold air intake soon to come)

-Oil Catch Can - By ERD

-Aluminium Intake Pipe

-Nismo Shortshifter

Handling

-HSD HR Coilovers

-Front Strut Brace

-Rear Strut Brace

-Adjustable lower control arms

- I just had the alternator rebuilt and a full service including water pump, timing belts etc etc

Has 160 XXXkms

Price is $11,500 neg

I live in Bulimba (southside, but still close to city).

Call me 0408 783 953

post-27480-1267245571_thumb.jpg

post-27480-1267245653_thumb.jpg

post-27480-1267245769_thumb.jpg

post-27480-1267246026_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309951-selling-1996-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey mate,

Not up for buying the car sorry but just wanted to comment and say that the car looks great with those rims on them! I own a Black Gtst too (1997, completely stock, even down to the jap radio) and am trying to find suitable rims. I'm thinking black or bronze - maybe R34 GTR rims.

Are those Volks? Fit the car well? (I'm unsure what width/offsets would suit my car - my Gtst is new to me)

Body kit (esp front bar) looks really neat too - good luck with the sale.

  • 3 months later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...