Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking to get a little feed back on a semi planned cosmetic mod for my R32 Gtst. I'm trying to keep any and all style mods looking as close to a factory look as possible but in the same time complementing the good looks of the R32.

I have thought of it for a while and ever time I lay my eyes on a R34 GTT the question keeps coming back up.

Would a R34 GTT wing look any good on a R32? Trying my hardest to stay clear of the somewhat ricey big GT wings that have no use on a street car. BUT as the same time I do love the look of the R34 GTT wing. Nice and smooth without being overly huge and standing out like dogs ****s.

So Yay or Nay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/
Share on other sites

imo it looks alright, looks stockies with something about it.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/99557-r34-wing-...er-yey-ney.html

thats a picture of some one with it.

do some google-ing and youll find some images.

Its nice (apart from being so far forward) but its the GTR wing, im chasing the GTT and am yet to come across one fitted to a R32.

Also searching for Roys car is proving annoying, he posts alot lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/#findComment-5111834
Share on other sites

Just looking to get a little feed back on a semi planned cosmetic mod for my R32 Gtst. I'm trying to keep any and all style mods looking as close to a factory look as possible but in the same time complementing the good looks of the R32.

I have thought of it for a while and ever time I lay my eyes on a R34 GTT the question keeps coming back up.

Would a R34 GTT wing look any good on a R32? Trying my hardest to stay clear of the somewhat ricey big GT wings that have no use on a street car. BUT as the same time I do love the look of the R34 GTT wing. Nice and smooth without being overly huge and standing out like dogs ****s.

So Yay or Nay.

Can't say I am a fan of the R34 GT / GTT / GTR wing on a R32

Looks fucking shit IMO.

Kinda sticks out like a sore thumb...

But each to their own.

If you want, go a R32 GTR spoiler and leave it as that.

As a suggestion you could go R324.

Bee*R in Japan make a R34 GTR front conversion for R32's.

post-46584-1267495110_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1267495135_thumb.jpg

(^^ It has the right wheel offset but the right height is fail as it sits up too high.)

May or may not be your taste or going though the entire effort in doing the conversion.

Also it has to be done right to pull it off.

I'd rather you do this then the R34 Spoiler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/#findComment-5112360
Share on other sites

Id rather the Bee-R kit too but lack of 6 grand for body mods has pulled that up pretty fast.

Im not too sure what the Gtt wing would look like and Im having a hard time finding one. If it doesnt look 'stockish' than it wont happen, but I have a feeling it will flow with the body and not be too big on the 32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/#findComment-5112605
Share on other sites

Yeah :) not cheap.

I say go R32 GTR spoiler or go the Nismo Boot Lip spoiler.

95066005.jpg

Looks nice.

Or Duck Wing Spoiler.

But I think you would need a nice wide body kit to pull this off or it just looks funny.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ng-t309271.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/#findComment-5112833
Share on other sites

Duck wings arnt really my thing, but the kit im looking at buying comes with a N1 Boot lip.

Why is a GTT wing on a R32 Gtst so hard to find, never mind a bloody Unicorn what about that set up. Unicorns cant even find those.

Does anyone who has a R34 GTT feel like earning an internet? Dimensions of a R43GTT wing would go down well, just so I will know how high it would sit and how wide on the car.

Edited by R32 DORI DORI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/#findComment-5112879
Share on other sites

A guy that i used to work with had a black GTT wing on his black 32 gtst..

It didnt look amazing but didnt look bad either, I was undecided for a while but now I like it.. If I bought a 32 I would consider it.

So pretty much it suits it quite well depending on the colour of your car.. ie if it was grey I think it would look shithouse. Unsure about white, ask someone to photoshop it?

Hope that helps man.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/#findComment-5113112
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
Hey I've been looking into this as well. Have an r34 gtt 4 door spoiler on it's way. The 4 door version sits lower than the coupe so I think it will compliment the shape of the r32. Will post up some photos when I get it on :P

If it's going to look any good at all, it would need to sit lower as you say ^^^, to complement the R32's stance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310210-r32-r34/#findComment-5163102
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...