Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Jap Manifolds Vs Japanese Made Brands

Chris32R

By Chris32R,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted
No

My apologies for the thread hijack but I've heard the standard rb26 manifold is quite good, the question is how good ?

Is it worthwhile changing if your keeping the twins congfiguration ?

Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted
My apologies for the thread hijack but I've heard the standard rb26 manifold is quite good, the question is how good ?

Is it worthwhile changing if your keeping the twins congfiguration ?

Guys, GUYS ?

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted
i have been running http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=274&page=1 manifold on my sr20 for over a year and had no troubles what so ever, it seemed to be a thicker gauge then their other similar sr20 manifolds.

This thread is kinda pointless...only because you have almost everyone coming on here and saying ive been running this for 3 years with no worries blah blah blah...sure but under what conditions????....anything will last 3 years on the street...

We used that ^ exact just jap manifold on a mates car and it cracked 3 times around where the gate comes off of the manifold...and the gate was braced! On the street yeah sure 'no worries', but on the track after half a day of driving it would crack, not the weld itself, but the material around the weld. Sure the manifold was heavy and wall thickness was decent, but still not enough.

The only option was to upgrade to a steampipe manifold.

So seriously, if its only going to be used on the street, where you only give it a squirt here and there, cheap shit is fine.

If youre even considering tracking it, go steampipe.

Deano45 Rising Star

Deano45

Posted
Posted
My apologies for the thread hijack but I've heard the standard rb26 manifold is quite good, the question is how good ?

Is it worthwhile changing if your keeping the twins congfiguration ?

The factory manifolds are quite good. I have kept them on my car and have heard of a lot of other cars doing the same. If you are handy with a die grinder, you port match them on both the turbo and engine sides. you then get them ceramic coated. For a bit of an extra gain, you can get them extrude honed too. I did the first 2 things, when I changed my turbos during my engine rebuild.

edit: forgot to add that they are a cast item, so are not likely to crack either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...