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Why do you want to go polycarbonate? Nissan glass is lighter than poly in most cases.

It's what all the cool people do :) Seriously I thought there was a fairly big weight saving. I wasn't too fussed about the rear screen as I know that's light as standard but door windows in particular I though was worthwhile.

I'll be either gut the standard doors or go fibreglass. Still undecided. Probably staying cheap with standard doors.

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I have some coming, the 33 hardcoated kit scratch resistant. A mate ordered it along with his 32 kit. I think it's coming from that mob, there was a 6 week wait on the hard coat stuff. To be honest didn't even ask what thickness. Will post up what it's like when it arrives and I've fitted it. And I'll weigh the std door glass vs the lexan.

Anyone else bought from them?? What thickness should I go for?

I've just taken delivery of a set from them.

I went for 5mm doors and 4mm windows. Figured the extra mm won't make that much difference in weight and it may just allow me to use factory seals to put them in.

I ordered them with the oem borders too, looks cool and will be easily mistaken for glass if I can indeed us the factory seals to put them in with.

The only downside, because they really do seem to be of very good quality, is the tinting (i got them tinted grey) it is darker on the door windows than it is on the 1/4s and rear window.

Apparently it's because the door windows are thicker so they are darker as a result.

No complaints though, being formed to shape should make them easy to install and less likely to leak in the wet.

If I was to order again (which I will be for my next build) I'd buy clear and have them all tinted over here so they match, but I'm a fussy pr!ck.

I have some coming, the 33 hardcoated kit scratch resistant. A mate ordered it along with his 32 kit. I think it's coming from that mob, there was a 6 week wait on the hard coat stuff. To be honest didn't even ask what thickness. Will post up what it's like when it arrives and I've fitted it. And I'll weigh the std door glass vs the lexan.

The one's we have coming Jack are 5mm for the door's, other wise they won't hold there shape, and 4mm for the other.

they claim to halve the weight of the factory glass, only time will tell..

Cheers

The one's we have coming Jack are 5mm for the door's, other wise they won't hold there shape, and 4mm for the other.

they claim to halve the weight of the factory glass, only time will tell..

Cheers

Did you buy yours from Plastics 4 Performance in UK ??

Thanks for the advise guys. I think clear with OEM borders is the go.

Don't think I'll bother with the hard coat as it almost doubles the price and my windows will likely be fixed so wont scratch from going up and down.

Interested in these windows for replacement rear quarter glass with naca ducts. Would be a very tight squeeze to get naca ducts happening there but need a good way of getting fresh air circulating through the car without opening windows.

Kind of a related question, I didnt want to start a new thread. Has anyone converted the power windows to a wind up handle??

Would be pretty straight forward to get going I would think if you are any good at fabrication / welding. You could use the gear off the motor to the regulator, weld the shaft / spline off another car through to the handle and hopefully where the winder motor is situated the door is flat otherwise cut and weld on something flat you can mount the hub to.

What is the reason you are thinking about it? I wouldn't think the weight saving would be that great / worth it. You would probably end up needing to use parts of the motor as a mount for your gear at the regulator end. Then you also need to do it in a way that you can take it all apart if need be down the track.

Interested in these windows for replacement rear quarter glass with naca ducts. Would be a very tight squeeze to get naca ducts happening there but need a good way of getting fresh air circulating through the car without opening windows.

Would be pretty straight forward to get going I would think if you are any good at fabrication / welding. You could use the gear off the motor to the regulator, weld the shaft / spline off another car through to the handle and hopefully where the winder motor is situated the door is flat otherwise cut and weld on something flat you can mount the hub to.

What is the reason you are thinking about it? I wouldn't think the weight saving would be that great / worth it. You would probably end up needing to use parts of the motor as a mount for your gear at the regulator end. Then you also need to do it in a way that you can take it all apart if need be down the track.

I thought there may have been a R32/R33 model which has wind up windows that could be retrofitted. The idea was that the whole assembly would be it a bit lighter and simpler with no electronics.

I thought there may have been a R32/R33 model which has wind up windows that could be retrofitted. The idea was that the whole assembly would be it a bit lighter and simpler with no electronics.

Yeah if you were really serious about weight reduction but needed to be able to wind windows up / down, and stripped looms / switches etc there would be a difference. But I would say if they ever did come with manual winders it would be in base model 4 door type things so the regulators might be a bit different to the coupes - opening up a world of hurt!

End of the day electric window regulators are pretty similar to manual ones, may just be a matter of finding the right winding gear from another car. Nissan may have stuck with the same basic regulator design around the era so might be possible with a visit to a nissan wrecker.

But again - if serious about weight reduction and your chosen motorsport allows it then the fixed polycarbonate windows with naca / sliders would be the way to go I would think.

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