Jump to content
SAU Community

Upgrading 32gtst

shibby69

By shibby69,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

shibby69 Collaborator

shibby69

Posted
Posted

so my car is ready to burn a deeper hole in my pockets just wondering where to start,

already got fmic turbo back zorst ebc and pod filter.

also getting a turbo unsure on specs at the moment in the next few weeks.

would it be best to leave the turbo off untill i get injectors, afm and fuel pump?

can i put the turbo on get an ecu and get it tuned to run safely on stock injectors etc?

thinking of going for a nistune, where abouts in adelaide is the best to get it done and tuned, is about 800 right for the unit installed and tuned?

\thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311643-upgrading-32gtst/
Share on other sites
dark.sky Grand Master

dark.sky

Posted
Posted

ontop of what you already have, get a HKS 2530 turbo, a decent clutch, 555cc injectors, z32 afm, a bigger fuel pump and a tune and it should make 220-240rwkw

Again, Jeff will be able to give you some hints on what mods to do aswell.

shibby69 Collaborator

shibby69

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ontop of what you already have, get a HKS 2530 turbo, a decent clutch, 555cc injectors, z32 afm, a bigger fuel pump and a tune and it should make 220-240rwkw

Again, Jeff will be able to give you some hints on what mods to do aswell.

thanks mate, how do i tell what clutch i have, its definately been replaced before i bought it but wasnt sure if it was heavy duty or a good brand

NizmoNigga Enthusiast

NizmoNigga

Posted
Posted
ontop of what you already have, get a HKS 2530 turbo, a decent clutch, 555cc injectors, z32 afm, a bigger fuel pump and a tune and it should make 220-240rwkw

Again, Jeff will be able to give you some hints on what mods to do aswell.

I got all of those mods and yet i get 205-210rwkw even after two tunes :) . One from Peter (Apparently a co-designer of the nistune software/hardware) wasnt happy then went to Morpowa.

shibby69 Collaborator

shibby69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just looking to purchase a fuel pump, looking at ebay and not sure which walbro pump is the best fit for a 32 gtst.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Walbro-255-In-Ta ... 45f181c8df

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0456368176

gss341 or gss 342

dark.sky Grand Master

dark.sky

Posted
Posted
I got all of those mods and yet i get 205-210rwkw even after two tunes :P . One from Peter (Apparently a co-designer of the nistune software/hardware) wasnt happy then went to Morpowa.
Yeah Pete from PLMS is the co creator of nistune AFAIK.

You won't get 240rwkw from a GT2530 without cams and even then you would be looking at around 20psi to get there.

Yeah well I didnt follow through with it, decided to chuck a RB25 in, but thats only what I got told... I forgot they said I would need adjustable cam gears too. Also was told I'd be running 20psi.

Good luck in any case :cool:

shibby69 Collaborator

shibby69

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Don't buy a Walbro from the internet, there are too many knock off pumps floating around and unless you get them from an authorised dealer like MTQ there is no guarantee that you will be getting a genuine pump.

thats never good, if i got a knock off pump would it end up doing damage to my car or simply not work, i wouldnt have a clue what to look for in a real one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...