Jump to content
SAU Community

White 2009 Adm For Sale

RCCC

By RCCC,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

Speedah Enthusiast

Speedah

Posted
Posted
Still under 2k on the odometer. $70000 plus take over the lease @1500/Mth for 33wks with $80000 residual. Please PM me.

Is there actually such a thing as "taking over a lease"??

How much do you need to get for the car?

Im looking for a white R35 right now.

Kev

fungoolie Community Regular

fungoolie

Posted
Posted (edited)
Does that work out at $162,000 for the car? think i got my sums right... :thumbsup:

Less than that in present value dollar terms. You need to take the interest thats factored into the payments into account. Deduct approx $4-5K.

And stamp duty is also dependent on the state you're in.

Edited by fungoolie
Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

is everyones summs out of whack because I got a much higher value than $170k when you add in the risidual, i got just under 200K + stamp duty ect...

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

either way there are cars from $159000 drive away without negotiating and accept trade ins, only prob is they have double the milage (4000km instead of 2000).

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/demo/d...2&silo=1011

fungoolie Community Regular

fungoolie

Posted
Posted (edited)
is everyones summs out of whack because I got a much higher value than $170k when you add in the risidual, i got just under 200K + stamp duty ect...

Not sure how you arrived at that figure. Without stuffing around with net present value calculations all you do is add the first payment and residual so say $150K. Then add the $12000 worth of instalments. So even without the interest component being taken into consideration it's $162K plus ORC. As I said earlier, interest on the outstanding $80K over less than a year is less than $5K.

Edited by fungoolie
Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted
Not sure how you arrived at that figure. Without stuffing around with net present value calculations all you do is add the first payment and residual so say $150K. Then add the $12000 worth of instalments. So even without the interest component being taken into consideration it's $162K plus ORC. As I said earlier, interest on the outstanding $80K over less than a year is less than $5K.

ahh I misread it, I read it as 1500/month for 33 months, instead of weeks.... I was wrong.

Still $180k for a car that didn't cost that much more to buy brand new in the colours and extras you want? Its way over priced dude. I know that Rick Damelian held his 2009 ADM GTR for 4 motnhs advertised @ $159 000 + transfers ect... It sat there for ages then they took $155 000 drive away transfers included.

If you need the money soon I think its best you get what you can for it now and cut your losses, expensive cars arn't selling too good these days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...