Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

also... if you are going to put on an rb25 turbo and nistune... some adjustable cam gears would go a long way to help get your turbo on song, and pull out some power in your mid range... supprised no one has suggested this as an option for your low down torque woes....

Nistune is a budget (but very good) management solution. Far better than spending a few hundred on an some fuel interceptor then getting it tuned, and infinitely better than putting some unknown remap in your car especially when thinking about bigger turbos.

As for the turbo.. a 25 turbo will come on song later but have more top end. When I still had the RB20 with the 25 turbo is made ~250rwhp untuned and was making its' full 12psi by 3500rpm, a tune would have helped a lot but it was still a lot more fun than the stock turbo.

Poor aussies and all your heavy restrictions...

Indonesia?, Equatorial Guinea?, Uzbekistan? Do tell. Catalytic converters have been round for a long time now. I'm wondering what sort of place allows you to run on the street without them. I'm guessing the President has a uniform and the national pastime is survival.

Last I heard, only months ago, it wasn't necessary to have a cat-converter in NZ.

Unless the guy(s) who mentioned that didn't really know (or care about) the law...

Edited by wlspn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...