Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just gonna hand my car over and let them do the work!, does anyone recommend anywhere who will replace my parts to stock and make it pass the id check without costing me toooooooooo much, although i know its going to be rather expensive anyways aha. Going to give sinergy a call tomorrow although i hear they are rather expensive, ahwell! let me know guys, thanks in advance!

cheers Ben

i think sinergy charge around the $1000 which gets you peace of mine your going to pass

all mod bits off replaced with stock bits, someone takes it to regency for you brings it back and replaces all your bits back

Wow really, I got told I'm looking at 2-4 grand and that may not include the turbo swap! I guess I'll be calling around then! If sinergy charge 100 for all that swap including the turbo that's sweet and I'll be going there aha, thanks mate

Yea I realised that :huh:, ahwell, Ive called some mates of mates aha, and taking it in monday and he will have a look, and should have it done in two days :D thankyou for your help everyone, hopefully on the road soon and I'll defently be coming down to come meet-ups and cruise's :(

Cheers Ben :down:

Just gonna hand my car over and let them do the work!, does anyone recommend anywhere who will replace my parts to stock and make it pass the id check without costing me toooooooooo much, although i know its going to be rather expensive anyways aha. Going to give sinergy a call tomorrow although i hear they are rather expensive, ahwell! let me know guys, thanks in advance!

cheers Ben

you get what you pay for: in Sinergy's case, they do a full report, supply the required parts, take it to Regency, and sit around while the ID and other checks are done. they have a regular inspection slot at Regency so can have the inspection done quite quickly. if you do it yourself you may have a longer turnaround time, but that's up to you as you may want to save money in that area.

hope that your mates can sort it out for you. it will probably take a while though.

i am with kim on that one.....just depends on how much time you have you can spend on the car/get id check/cash.....where as with synergy it might be a 3-5 day process and all you gotta do is front up the $$$

Another place that comes to mind that pass cars thru regency is Import Compliance Systems they also swap over parts to clear defects. His name is vince and he is out at Holden Hill.

First you dont need to go for a full inspection, You have all the correct plates already fitted, you need to go for an ID check and nothing more, as long as:

Your Engine/VIN/Compliance numbers all match up

They dont spot any defect issues

Then they will not send you off for a full roadworthy.

Fix the issues,

Turbo

Fuel Pressure reg

legal height

No tint

No boost controller

Standard steering wheel

Secure pod filter

No stuiped loud exhaust

Standard BOV

Remove gauges around dash

PS, ring Regency and confirm that you only need ID check and then your life will be 5 times easier.

Edited by JiN_MaN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...