Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GKTECH-SS-R32-R33-S...=item5884a5677c

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-...=item2ea80a6c50

I currently have an aftermarket dump pipe and 3" Catback exhaust looking at gettin the front pipe to make my exhaust 3" Turbo back what is the best choice out of the 2 examlpes i have given?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312321-exhaust-flex-pipe-yes-or-no/
Share on other sites

It's not a question of performance.

Same shit.

You NEED a flex pipe to absorb movements in and around the exhaust system.

This eat's up stress that would otherwise be put on exhaust manifolds, exhaust mountings and so on.

id go with the cheaper one with the flex joint aswell.

and with all cheapy stuff the jigs they use are often not rite. so with the flex you have that extra margin for error. just make sure you have the g box exhaust hanger fitted..

Indeed it could pose a problem.

Get things hot enough, they can warp and so on with too much weight.

Could warp flanges and so on. Extra stress on manifold bolts and the like.

I've seen a turbine housing actually twisted due to similar issues with heat/weight (was circuit, 400rwkw+ setup though)

Indeed it could pose a problem.

Get things hot enough, they can warp and so on with too much weight.

Could warp flanges and so on. Extra stress on manifold bolts and the like.

I've seen a turbine housing actually twisted due to similar issues with heat/weight (was circuit, 400rwkw+ setup though)

It does happen, my Exhaust hsg warped and I had to replace the hsg

Does any one want to group buy in it??? Ill also purchase one and gaskets to suit if any ones keen, Im going to replace my stock Nissan exhaust and Add a 3inch kakimoto racing pipe behide This GKTECH RB25DET Front/Dump pipe http://www.gktech.com.au/front.asp?pid=11&...uctID=R323-FRDU

Edited by HoWiE_Au
^^ about that. i have no gbox to exhaust support on my system. its a stainless turbo back with no flex pipe.

can it be a problem?

i would have one put on there, my dad's snapped off from the back of the turbo!

Edited by mark660

Lol, saw them on ebay and decided on buying 2 for the RB26dett

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

also found cheap same-priced 3" turbo dump pipes, so paid for 2 of those as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=350324770735

Will merge the 2 gktech's into 1 3" outlet, inlieu of cat-converter pipe, to mate up to the 5zigen cat-back I have

:)

yeh - whys that - wont they work (ie bolt on) ?

I thought they did. . .

or are you saying they are crud.

to be used only a few times per yr on a R32 track-sedan

the rb26 engine will be rebuilt in a couple of years time after some Mallala sessions, and go into my Stagea

  • 4 weeks later...

Ive bought a GKtech front split pipe and put my exhaust on overall it feels like i cant get my auto to tramp it as much down low it could be because im not catching the revs properly with my right foot. But about 3 grand till red line i do notice a fair bit more pull (Note i'm running a stock rb25 turbo) Just a lame arse question what size are these baby snails are the a T2 or T25 size or something all i know is there bloody small compared to my T04e i have in the cupboard. Im not game enough to put on my Ebay t04e snail on my car lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...