Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Problem Need Quick Solution!

Ty$

By Ty$,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ty$ Community Regular

Ty$

Posted
Posted

ok i bought a r32 cheap, obiously there was a reason why an this im guessing is it,

its a r32 with high mount turbo bla bla bla

what seems to be happening is the oil is getting into the coolant somewhere, the actual engine oil doesnt get mixed it stays clear but the coolant is milky as fark, the gauge doesnt work in the car but it is overheating an emptying the radiator fast,

soo im guessing headgasket??? a oil chamber is leaking into coolant chamber?? but why doesnt the oil galerys get coolant in them ???

the guy i bought it off had engine oil in a coolant container ? is it possible he topped up radiator with the engine oil an thats why it keeps boiling quick ??

the car has no boost at all im getin a flat 0 on the gauge with minimal power

help someone out there!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312666-rb20-problem-need-quick-solution/
Share on other sites
WrenchesInTheGears Enthusiast

WrenchesInTheGears

Posted
Posted

maybe get a compression check, if its the head gasket thats gone as soon as it will try to boost it will just be leaking the boost out of the gasket, hence no boost, and you would have to be really stupid to put oil in the radiator,

ther may not be coolant in the oil because its more combustion gases that are getting into the coolant,

when ur car has been sitting over night does it turn over slowly for the first crank, if it does it could be coolant leaking back into the cylinder, but twhen its running the combustion is pushes into the coolant.

Ty$ Community Regular

Ty$

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i fully flushed out all the oil in the coolant, i rang the previous owner n he did say he put the "coolant" (actually oil) into the overflow bottle, i now have the other problems to look at which are

no boost max im getting on the gauge is 0 lol

smoke coming out of the catch can filter but its not even connected right ( is a line ment to go to sump? i only got to coming off top cover)

small amount of white smoke coming from exhaust on start up an rough idle on start up??

Ty$ Community Regular

Ty$

Posted
  • Author
Posted

we can rule out the head,

i drove the car for over 1hr today

coolant remained same level no mixture of oil n water in ether motor or ratiator

i figured out why its not coming on boost lol im not reving it high enough!! DUHH lol over 5000rpm it starts up (i dont thrash my cars much)

only problem remaining is white smoke on start up??

WrenchesInTheGears Enthusiast

WrenchesInTheGears

Posted
Posted

there should be boost well before 5 grand unless u have a mammoth turbo

a standard 32 should start spooling at probs about 2-2.5 grand under load and have full boost by 3.5-4

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
there should be boost well before 5 grand unless u have a mammoth turbo

a standard 32 should start spooling at probs about 2-2.5 grand under load and have full boost by 3.5-4

He did say it had a high mount.. and full boost on a stock RB20 with stock turbo by 3500rpm?? That's when the 25 turbo on my RB20 was making 12psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...