Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your right, they use numbers for blocks, zones and areas.

For example, my address is: Motoyama Nishimachi "2-2-7-501" Higashinada-ku Kobe.

The "2-2-7-501" equals: Block #2, Building/House #2-7, Apartment #501 (I live in a 7 story building).

There ya go! It makes sense IMO...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-631716
Share on other sites

In some ways the system does make sense - well, the Japanese postmen (and women) don't seem to have any problems

BUT it seems that in a lot of cases block 6 is nowhere near block 5...

or in my case, I live in house 2640, which is next to 2604 which is next to 2582 I believe! :rofl:

But I do live out in the countryside!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-631781
Share on other sites

I should add that around where I live you can find little street side maps. They give you details of all the buildings in the area and their numbers, and in most cases the owners/residents surname. Makes finding a house somewhat easier! :rofl:

And most of the major roads do have names/numbers, such as Yamanote Dori, or Route 20, or Bypass...

It's not too bad when you get used to it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-631793
Share on other sites

So the equivelent of our Hwy's and FWY's do have names(or route numbers) and when in prefectures it's the number system you mentioned?

I guess once you are use to it it would be handy you could look at the numbers and tell in what general direction you have to head

(assuming there is an order to the number system.. :rofl:

cheers for the Info guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-631930
Share on other sites

I think America has the best Street Naming system, its just numbers.

1st Street

2nd Street

3rd Street

Makes things very easy if you want to get to 22nd street you just keeeeeep driving. I never got lost when I was walking around, but then again thats coz I didn't venture out too far coz I forgot to take my pistol :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-631974
Share on other sites

Hi, this is kinda off the topic, but I have heard its really expencive to live in Japan, like everything costs alot of AUD. Is this true? Or was it the case, but now its fine?

I'm sure this was touched on before, on one of the other threads. Can't find it now though, probably a victim of The Great Lost Month...:(

But basically:

BIG CITY = Very Expensive :)

LITTLE CITY = Expensive :(

IN THE MOUNTAINS = Cheap :)

the biggest outlay in Japan is rent. Costs your more in the city. Having said that, I have no idea how that compares to Aus. How much would you pay for a small apartment in Sydney for example?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-632356
Share on other sites

FCUK!

Then you're gonna have a shock living in Tokyo! According to an online currency calculator 420 bucks AUS is around 35,000 yen! Shit, my mate who lives in the small city near me pays 40,000 yen for a 1 room apartment!!! In tokyo expect to pay around 50,000 to 80,000 yen a month for a similar sized (1 room with dining/kitchen bathroom) and that won't include parking!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-632406
Share on other sites

Rezz will know more about the costs of rent in big cities, but basically it's looking like Japan is VERY expensive compared to Aus. Don't forget before you can move in you often have to pay several months in advance, plus a months rent as fee to the housing agency, plus another month's as "Key Money" - a mandatory monetary gift to the land owner...:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-632410
Share on other sites

In tokyo expect to pay around 50,000 to 80,000 yen a month for a similar sized (1 room with dining/kitchen bathroom) and that won't include parking!

80,000yen = A$979/mth

If you ask me $244/wk ($979/mth) is pretty damn cheap to live in Tokyo City.

To get rent down to $244/wk in Sydney you would have to go 45mins west (:() and that would get you a 4 bedroom house with double lockup garage and small-med backyard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-632422
Share on other sites

It certainly seems expensive, but I'm always converting things to British, and rents over there, even in London, aren't too bad! :(

It's certainly a lot cheaper to live outside the main cities. You also have to factor in parking costs - I believe Rezz pays around 15,000 yen a month whereas I don't pay anything living out in the countryside as I do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-632429
Share on other sites

Yes guys, shock horror... I pay 120,000 yen a month for a 3 bedroom, 1 bathroom apartment in the area east of Kobe near a really expensive place called Ashiya. In 2003, Settsu-Motoyama (my area) was voted "fastest growing urban zone", meaning it's a combo of the nicest, cleanest, most convenient areas in Japan... hence the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-632678
Share on other sites

I dig your sig, Dave... :)

Thanks mate! :)

Geez - 120,000 yen a month! Still I bet it's cool to live in a nice area. Don't get me wrong, there's nothing bad about being in the countryside but my youngest neighbour is way past retirement and I'm surrounded on all sides by old farm houses and even the odd mud brick house! :D Not to mention there's virtually no nite life...:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-632773
Share on other sites

hehehe. It aint all bad :D

What the Japanese term countryside is actually quite "urbanised" in my book. But, where I am now, it's about a 5 min drive into the mountains. Moutain roads means drfit action, especially on the weekends. They also mean very few traffic signals (in the cities you've got to put up with traffic jams and signals every 100m or so, something that really makes driving in the city a pain in the ass:()

in my spare time I often take a 5 min drive to my local racing circuit in the mountains and watch the racing/drift action :P

SLY_4.JPG

SLY_3.JPG

for me Tokyo is around an hour away by car, as is Mt. Fuji, Fuji Speedway, Yokohama and nagano for skiing...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-634806
Share on other sites

the above photos are taken from my site. The circuit itself is growing, but it's essentially a RWYB circuit so you can see just about anything on the track, bikes and hondas included...:P

As a side note, thus far the fastest car I can recall seeing around the track was a seriously worked Subaru...FORESTER! :D

they also have a cool RC track aswell...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31278-jap-streets/#findComment-634811
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...