Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, please take it easy on this one, I'm new to all this :blush:

I've had a pretty long look through the forums and there seemed to be a lot of dispute when it comes to spark plugs. I've got a stock r34 gtt with cat-back exhaust, what should I be using? I'm not sure what's in there not cos i haven't looked since i bought it (only just read how to), so I'll be having a look this week. There is a miss-fire at idle tho.

So what's the deal? Copper, platinum or iridium? They last different amount of time, right? I'm trying to learn as much as i can at the moment so i don't mind changing the plugs every 5000km with oil (also changing that this week cos, its been almost 7000km and starting to hear a bit of ticking, hoping the change will fix it).

I understand is like this: a certain voltage is sent through the plug, which causes the spark, so smaller gap means the spark happens earlier in the piston cycle (as well as being more consistent as less spark is required). Copper requires less voltage to cause the spark (ie more consistent between cycles?), but due to the properties of copper some of the spark plug is lost during each spark. Platinum and iridium are much harder and thus so they don't erode as quickly. The erosion affects when in the cycle the spark fires because it changes the plug gap.

So, please correct me if this is wrong!! And what do i buy? lol

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312824-another-spark-plug-question/
Share on other sites

if ur happy to changing the sparkplugs with oil change then copper plugs are the way to go.

iridium is over kill

and i have found that platinum dont always last 100,000km. i have had some go at 10,000km so im not happy with them but other ppl have reported success.

if u get misfiring at the top end then its because the gap is 2 big or the coils are arcing out. to fix = new coils, close down the gap, silicon the coil mounting bracket.

i have not had misfiring at idle so im not to shore maybe change the oil, sparkplugs and see how that goes.

i personally dont gap my sparkplugs i should to make shore there the same but so far i haven't had any problems other then platinum sparkplugs that shit themselves after 10,000km and some arcing

the part number 4 my copper plugs BKR5E-11

follow this link to understand the part number http://www.ngkspark.com.au/sparkplug.php#

thanks mate. when i posted this i'd only searched the gen maintenance forums, but there's a massive amount of confusing info in the faq sticky in the forced induction performance forums.

hoping it sounds happier after this weeks service, it'll be good to not fear the old oil hurting the engine

don't run the BKR5 plugs on a turbo car. they are too hot and may cause the car to ping, which leads to other bad things. BCPR6ES or BKR6E are the plugs to run. the BCPR6ES plugs are actually a slightly taller plug so will make contact with the coil a bit better, but either will do. those plugs are gapped at 0.8mm, for the ones with the 1.1mm gap (which is stock but may result in a missfire with weak coils) then add -11 to the part number.

as for how often to change them, i pulled my BCPR6ES plugs out after 5000kms and they still looked fine, and were still performing fine even on 14psi, so i could've got another 5000kms out of them easily. the plugs i pulled out before putting the copper plugs in were iridiums that were only 20,000kms and were stuffed, so at 5 or 6 times the price they certainly weren't worth the extra money.

don't run the BKR5 plugs on a turbo car. they are too hot and may cause the car to ping, which leads to other bad things. BCPR6ES or BKR6E are the plugs to run. the BCPR6ES plugs are actually a slightly taller plug so will make contact with the coil a bit better, but either will do. those plugs are gapped at 0.8mm, for the ones with the 1.1mm gap (which is stock but may result in a missfire with weak coils) then add -11 to the part number.

as for how often to change them, i pulled my BCPR6ES plugs out after 5000kms and they still looked fine, and were still performing fine even on 14psi, so i could've got another 5000kms out of them easily. the plugs i pulled out before putting the copper plugs in were iridiums that were only 20,000kms and were stuffed, so at 5 or 6 times the price they certainly weren't worth the extra money.

This

For a stockish datsun ;) just chuck in some bcpr6es plugs, clean them, but replace them every 2nd or so service.

At stock boost, I wouldn't be able to justify going iridiums

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...