Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok ive got the car running after i installed a highflow turbo, JJR split dump/front pipe modified into a screamer, and wrapped the top half of the dump pipe with exhaust wrap.

started it up and its quite loud, exhaust is flowing out of the wastegate at idle, is this only while its cold? or is this the ghey thing about internally gated screamers?

what could be causing the black smoke as i rev the engine? would it be the standard ECU riching it up coz of the highflow? or anything to do with the dump?

also after running for about 2 mins i noticed the turbo/dump pipe area started to smoke, is this just becuase the exhaust wrap is new?

cheers

jimmy

Unless the wastegate area is perfectly sealed from the exhaust I imagine you will get exhaust flow from 'screamer' all the time.

Black smoke I would put down to standard ECU running overly rich as you mention.

& yes exhaust wrap will smoke for a long time. Takes ages to burn off & generally stinks too!

idle rich is mainly on O2 sensor. Plug it in to a Diagnostic computer and see if that shows lean rich lean rich lean rich .... it doesn't then O2 sensor needs to be replaced.

What is this internally gated screamer? did you chop a section off it for the external gate sound? One of my friend tried it. Car just sounds like a permanent exhaust leak. Didn’t work as expected.

Also you must adjust the stock actuator flange to ensure waste gate is shut. We adjust it free of charge if that was sent in with the turbo. Information regarding "how to" is on my 30 pages thread.

the actuator was bolted onto the turbo when i sent it in, ill have a read 2mro.

taken it for a drive and the bloody thing is overheating, got to 3/4 on the gauge then i came home and turned it off. the 1st drive i accidently left the coolant bleeding screw loose so i thought that was the prob, got home tightened it up let it cool off, went for another drive and the temp went to 3/4 again came home and theres fark all coolant in the system. maybe a leak from one of the water lines to the turbo? i had to reuse the old copper washers coz i couldnt source any, any ideas???????

In This case the actuator has been adjusted. No need to touch that.

If water is leaking through the cooper washers you will be able to visually see it. Get a pressure tester onto the radiator and see where the water is leaking from.

hav a feelin its coz i didnt bleed it properly so ill try that wen i get home.

also the car runs like crap, no power at all under 3000rpm then quickly makes boost to around 15psi and feels sluggish. this is probably coz of the standard ecu yeah?

Well few reasons. First of all turbo is bigger and heavier built with steel so you will notice some sort of lag. Should be getting full boost around 3500 mark. Drive it for 150KMs you will note the response of the turbo improves.

After a good tune with supporting mods, you will get around 250rwkws mark.

15psi on standard ECU = not good. Rich and retard for sure...why are you boosting it without getting it tuned? My only driving after bolting on a high flow turbo would be to my tuner unless you have the wastegate set to standard boost.

ok time for an update, the cooling issue looks to be gone, i bled the system properly this time.

car is running ALOT better now with the boost controller disconnected and it doesnt feel laggy anymore (ecu must of taken out timing and maybe hitting r&r)

but now ive ran into another problem.....overboosting. so i put my foot down boost starts to build around 3000rpm, boost builds quickly to 9psi then about a second later it climbs quickly to 17ish psi then i back off. im guessing this is the split dump :blink: i dont get it but! if the JJR split dump are THAT bad how does he sell so bloody many of them, and i did die grind the inside of the wastegate section on the dump pipe where its fouling.

what checks can i make from here? blowing compressed air into the wastegate??

EDIT: and also SOMETIMES the car stalls after i bip the throttle like its running an atmo bov, i have put the standard one back on but since ive got a different intake pipe its custom return piping, would a slight restriction in the bov return hosing cause it to do this?

Edited by jimmys-33T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...