Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These things seem to be majorly expensive for some bent sheet metal and hinges. I was wondering if there are cheaper options to prevent oil starvation or if we are destined to pay the $500 to $1000+ asking prices.

I remember awhile back someone linked to some American gadget which was a big pressurised cylinder, and when it detected pressure drop in the sump, it injected more oil into the line until pressure was restored. I think these were still fairly expensive though (US$200?)

What about the option of building your own? If someone had a set of plans for a sump baffle, I am guessing it wouldn't cost more than $100 in materials to build (unless I'm way off). Has anyone built their own, and if so would they be willing to share the plans?

Lastly, maybe there are some metal workshops that can build and sell them for a reasonable price. If they didn't *only* make sump baffles, then surely they wouldn't care about the limited customer base of these things and the fact that they are a one-off purchase. I imagine that most of the places that specialise in sump baffles realise that once you buy one, that car will never need another one again and so jack up the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/
Share on other sites

That seems to be the way it goes with car parts though. People are all too willing to pay the asking price because they don't know any better.

Have you looked at some yahoo Japan auctions for these? I'm sure you could find someone who could help you get some from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-632313
Share on other sites

Going from memory, I believe the UAS baffles are a copy of the JUN baffles knocked up by Micks Metalcraft, this may have changed as its been over a year since I was last looking for some.

The tomei baffles are reasonably priced and might be a good option.

The majority of the cost will be installation, as unless you want to stuff around removing the cross member you will need to pull the motor to drop the sump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-635913
Share on other sites

I’m sure a metal craft place could make some up with some sort of plans, as for the cost of installation...I have pulled out my sump completely without pulling the engine out or removing the cross member, although it doesn't have the baffle so I don’t know how that would affect it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-636049
Share on other sites

You will find that most engineering/welding fabrication shops charge about $55-75/hour, so soon gets expensive when you consider the labour required, not so much the material cost.

Instead of a baffled sump, would a larger oil pan be enough, if there is even a need for one on the first place? Will still cost some money, but would no doubt work out cheaper... actually just dry sump it and say goodbye to your sub and audio gear in the boot ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-636085
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...