Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It could be worth a drive to Autotech as I wouldn't recommend anyone who hasnt done the install before.

Is the motor built? If not you will be stressing the rods, could be a good opportunity to rip the engine out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313257-v35-350gt-tt/#findComment-5146878
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Im also going to be looking at t his early next year, im setting my V up at the moment im to tall to drive a 34 or a 33 so i have no choice if i want full sick turbo i have to pay the $$ for it.

You must be bloody tall :blink: My mate is 6'8" and fits into a 33 comfortably.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313257-v35-350gt-tt/#findComment-5935720
Share on other sites

You must be bloody tall :blink: My mate is 6'8" and fits into a 33 comfortably.

True but it depends what you leg to torso ratio is, I'm only 6'4 but I'm top tall (heaps of shirts are too short pants to long) and my head is really close in 33's, I cop it from my mates too haha same height waist as my 5'10 mate lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313257-v35-350gt-tt/#findComment-5936689
Share on other sites

You did lower the seat in the 33/34's didn't you? if you get desperate you can supposedly rip out some of the adjustment stuff below it and bolt it directly to the floor.

Oh well guess its a bit late for that now anyway...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313257-v35-350gt-tt/#findComment-5936859
Share on other sites

You must be bloody tall :blink: My mate is 6'8" and fits into a 33 comfortably.

Yeh its not just that they call me T4NK for a reason lol, im not the thinest kid around:P but yeh its a leg and head room issue i can feel my hair on the roof and i cant move my left leg in the car at all with stock wheel and seats, i lowerd the seat all the way and lifed the wheel up. tbh i have NFI how ur m8t fits in that car he must have his legs around his ears to be able to shift.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313257-v35-350gt-tt/#findComment-5937133
Share on other sites

Hey all, looking to purchase a greddy or an APS tt kit for my 350gt. Just wondering where can i get it bought and installed at?? preferable in VIC but happy to get it done anywhere east coast if it means a better job.

cheers for the help

tuned a few similar setups and the latest being not long ago (HKS GT3037s) kit and it is my pick of all the kits out there, made 253rwkw @ 6psi on BP98, cranking it to 10psi on its next visit then doing a swap to e85.. cant wait.

PS the kit can be had cheaply as HKS usa is going belly up and selling stock off like crazy as is performance wholesale in QLD, i think the whole kit (turbo, ex gate, cooler etc) was under 4k.

Got one coming for my brothers V35 coupe i was that impressed.... full boost 2300rpm and the sound of the gate is phenomenal.

these engines happily make 300-320rwkw without to much stress, if it can handle a season of track work its gonna sneeze at road duties.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313257-v35-350gt-tt/#findComment-5938179
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...