Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks good!

do you mind if I ask how much it set you back?

US$175, I chose this one becasue it is designed for 350z/G35/M35, it got a TIG Welded bracketry and Vibration Mounts, also a mount for oxygen sensor on the tube.

post-66781-1269394679_thumb.jpg

Alright thanx 4 dat . Btw Paul besides showing dyno results and throttle sound, did u actually feel any difference once the z tube and pop charger were installed( excluding the spacer).

Cheers

here is what they tested on a 350z, claimed that gain 10kw and 7Nm, but to be honest, I can't feel that 5% gain on the wheel.

post-66781-1269410262_thumb.jpg

Alright thanx 4 dat . Btw Paul besides showing dyno results and throttle sound, did u actually feel any difference once the z tube and pop charger were installed( excluding the spacer).

Cheers

No not really. Only difference in mods i could feel was the lightweight under drive pulley

I can assure you that the Fujita kit isnt low enough to suck up water. Unless the puddle is up to your headlights, in which case you're probably stuffed anyway.

I'm personally not a fan of the nissan Z tube + JWT combo, but I confess that I havent actually tried it. My main reason is that it still has the "corrigated" (for lack of a better word) section. I'm no engineer but I would have thought a smoother tract to be better...

In any case, I am doubtful of anyone who says that they can feel a power gain with either one. I lean more towards the airbox = better performance.

All of that aside, the noise is the only reason why you would bother with it. I love the noise therefore you may call me a ricer if you like :)

This looks alot more neater, plus think about it, it has much softer curves allowing for the air to pass through with minimal resistance(compared to the Z-tube). I do think that the JWT combo for some reason has the loudest noise out of them all. In terms of power gains, no breathing mod will give you a noticable increase in power which you can feel.

Hey guys...

I CAN feel the difference between my intakes on the car...from when it was stock to when it was high flow panel + ztube to a proper CAI.

And it's not just i can feel it, you can see it in the video too. I have a video of z tube + high flow panel and a video of a CAI. You will notice the CAI video has much stronger top end but weaker middle. In comparison the ztube + panel filter shows a stronger middle but weaker top.

Incidentally, the CAI video shows a 0-100 of 5.6s, if you check frame by frame.

Z tube + panel filter

CAI

Edit - Not saying your car will show the same results. Different state of tune, engine health, mods etc all come into play.

Edited by Touge Kyousou

With the air box you you gain 3HP when up and over 100kmh from the ram air effect.

With an open/air pod you can gain between 10 and 15HP, air speed has little to no effect.

This is what i have read somewhere.

There is a thread in here somewhere with a guy sucking up water with his low mounted air intake.

With air box you gain 3hp ? Please explain...how can you gain hp from the air box if the air box is factory installed.

You can change the velocity stack inside the airbox to increase the ram air effect, but it's impact isn't drastic. From my experience, the airbox gives solid low down and mid torque but chokes the engine a little when revving out to 7k rpm.

I however need to get my car retuned for the CAI instead of airbox...that may explain my loss of power down low and mid.

With air box you gain 3hp ? Please explain...how can you gain hp from the air box if the air box is factory installed.

You can change the velocity stack inside the airbox to increase the ram air effect, but it's impact isn't drastic. From my experience, the airbox gives solid low down and mid torque but chokes the engine a little when revving out to 7k rpm.

I however need to get my car retuned for the CAI instead of airbox...that may explain my loss of power down low and mid.

If you put the car on a dyno and get 165rwkw then put the same car in a wind tunnel (wind speed 100kmh+) on a dyno you'll get more power from the "ram air effect"

and before you ask "who would put a car on a dyno in a wind tunnel?" the answer is the guy who built it Carlos Ghosn

I think thats the guy who owns/runs Nissan

Intriguing bit of info but irrelevant for comparison ?

As running the factory box or a cai setup, the air speed parameter for testing/comparison will always be identical between the two, whether it be a dyno fan or travelling at 100km/h.

Also, if you had the pod enclosed within the largest box you can make fit in your bay, then run some decent feeds to it (large enough that when going at 100km/h, it will push enough air into the box to create positive pressure), then you'll get that "ram air" effect. It's basically cramming air into your engine vs it having to suck it in (think turbo/supercharging). I don't know if you're gonna be able to negate the neg pressure generated inside the box when the you go WOT though.. being a 3.5l, it's gonna be sucking a fair bit of air. Come to think of it, i really doubt the factory box can generate any sort of pressure, maybe just reduce the vacuuming effect. The velocity stack built into it and the internal design of the box will be engineered to increase air velocity and smooth air flow however.

Anyways, it's all moot, we're talking like 2rwkw lol =/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...