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FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
Posted
Not sure about the scrub radius... I lengthened the control arms by 25mm to get 2 1/2 degrees of Negative Camber, I guess it would have widened the track by about 60mm... normally you would want the rear track to be wider than the front, so ideally would swap the rear wheels to something with a deeper dish, but I won't bother...

Since the ball joint remains in the same location relative to the strut, wouldn't scrub radius remain the same???

I went 2 1/2 degrees because of the locked diff, 2 degrees would be plenty without that... it has helped enormously with turn in... At the same time I went to R31 Steering arms to quicken the rack up (effectively shortening the steering arms by about 12mm), so with the effect of that on the Ackerman, I can't be sure of what would have driven any change of feeling...

Instead of lengthening the control arms, the ideal would be using 240Z tops, and smaller springs, and relocating the bolt holes at the top, so you could get the Neg Camber without widening the track... but that is a lot more money than the car is worth...

I was going to use R31 Lower Control Arms so I could replace ball joints, but I would have needed to lengthen them by about 75mm, and there didn't seem to be an easy way to do that...

One day, I will probably get the caster rods machined up to be adjustable so I can adjust the caster...

Cheers,

Daewoo

well the scrub radius is the line from the top pivot point ie the strut top mount and the bottom pivot point ie bottom ball joint and where that line will meet the road compared to a line through the centre of the tire to the ground, this is to give you steering feel, if the top mount is standard and the bottom ball joint has moved out it will effect this, however it could be a good effect so thats why i ask? if you have plenty of road feel through the wheel it must be working well.

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
well the scrub radius is the line from the top pivot point ie the strut top mount and the bottom pivot point ie bottom ball joint and where that line will meet the road compared to a line through the centre of the tire to the ground

I think the scrub radius will be the same... The distance from the line through the ball joint to the strut top to the centre of the wheel is the same... to change the scrub radius you would need to change the line...

I think 240K/180B Steering arms have the ball join centered in the middle of the strut... R30/R31 Steering arms have the ball join set outwards in the strut... changing from a 240K to R31 Steering arm would change the scrub radius... but that offset is the same for R30/R31 that is swapped between...

Is that right???

Cheers,

Daewoo

  • 2 weeks later...
Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just a bit of an update...

Our club is running our Wakefield Park Supersprint on June 20th. They won't let me run the white car because of the 'excess body damage' so I am going to try and get the green car ready... this is a car that has only been driven in the driveway since I bought it, so I have no idea what I am going to find...

I have disassembled and reassembled the gearbox with help from my mate Warwick... only ended up replacing a couple of bearings, and the front housings... didn't put the Zed first gear in, 'cause I decided it wasn't worth the hassle, and with a 4.8:1 diff, the gap between 1st and second gears is less apparent anyway...

I bought a ceramic button clutch for it, and have installed the clutch pedals, but that is about it... At the moment the car is on jackstands without lwer control arms, rear suspension, geabox, or diff

The list of things to do;

A Has to be done

B Should be done

C Would be nice

D If you have time

E Must be bored

A Buy & Fit Fire Extinguisher

A Fit 2nd Throttle Return Spring

A Fit Clutch and Gearbox

A Fit Diff

A Fit Lower Control Arms

A Wheel Alignment

A New Exhaust

A Fit Rear Suspension

A Fit front say bar

A Fit rear Say Bar

A Mount Battery

A Change Engine Oil

A Upgrade CAMS Licence

A Fit Air-box/Air Filter

A Clean/Vacuum car

A Swap tyres with Pulsar

B Weld up 4.8:1 Diff and fit

B Fit Shortened Steering Arms

B Side Exit - New Exhaust

B Bungs and plugs for removed pollution gear

B Fit Aftermarket Front Sway Bar

B Fit Aftermarket Rear Sway Bar

B Change Brake Fluid

B Fit Race Seats

B Swap steering wheel from White Car

C Fit Rear Wing to Roof

C Fit Cresida AFM and Airbox.

C Install Battery Cut-out switch

C Mount Battery In Car

C Get Harnesses back from Boob

C Fit Harnesses

D Lower Seat Mounts

D Remove Body Deadener

D Paint Bonnet

D Change Wiper Blades

D Rain-ex Fog-ex windows

E Paint Bottom half of car black and buy stickers

Cheers,

Daewoo

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Daewoo,

Just wondering... you've converted an auto to manual, does a manual R30 have the same ECU as an auto or are they different?

JH

Hope it is the same, or I am screwed - don't think I kept the ECU from the manual car I had before I sent it to the big scrapyard in the sky...

FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
Posted
Hope it is the same, or I am screwed - don't think I kept the ECU from the manual car I had before I sent it to the big scrapyard in the sky...

hey daewoo

do any of your cars have grey interiors?

i need some door handles and door handle surrounds ?????

cheers

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
Posted
Hope it is the same, or I am screwed - don't think I kept the ECU from the manual car I had before I sent it to the big scrapyard in the sky...

Hopefully someone here will know for sure.

Also, I read somewhere that the auto flywheel is different to the manual. Didn't see flywheel in your list.

JH

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey daewoo

do any of your cars have grey interiors?

i need some door handles and door handle surrounds ?????

cheers

Sorry, both were brown...

Hopefully someone here will know for sure.

Also, I read somewhere that the auto flywheel is different to the manual. Didn't see flywheel in your list.

JH

Auto's have a flex plate that the torque converter bolts to... I have the flywheel from the car I pulled the gearbox from... needs a bit of a clean up, as it got a bit wet in the shed when I had it stored... but it will do...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how do you get into this stuff? barely looks legal haha

Neither car will be road registered... the locked diff and welded lower control arms put paid to that... the number plates are old ones that I never handed in... I just had them on the car when it was parked on the street to stop the council sticking a 'Tow Away' sticker on it...

The white car is barely legal for competition - I always check with the organiser that they will let me run without a grill and headlight... other than that it is OK, no sharp edges which is something they are always obsessed with...

The green car is a good car, and could be registered if I hadn't started doing mods that exclude it... but who wants to pay $1,000 per year for a car that is never driven on the road... you don't want to drive it to events, because you never know if you won't be able to drive it home :lol:

For $500 each, I reckon they are bargains... :) definately had more fun with them than the $30K Pulsar sitting in my mates chook shed...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Sounds like fun, As Wakey is only an hour a way i will come say gday...

maybe add perspex rear hatch to the list? have you felt how heavey they are!!!! i cant lift it on my own (almost)

my red parts car is about 1m in the air right now getting GUTTED. so I'll have a few years worth of spares.

the auto ecu will work with the manual, and so on. main differences between the 2 engines is the distributor. one has a different advance curve to the other.

also I have a 3 inch exhasut here you may be interested, its got surface rust, mild steel . but I wont be useing it as I have a 3 to 2.75 inch mandrel bent stainless system going on.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
as I have a 3 to 2.75 inch mandrel bent stainless system going on.

Where you dig this up from?????

Though you might want to rethink this as I think a 3" system on your L24et will be detrimental to an 2" or 2.5". You have to have free flow in any turbo system and very nearly zero back pressure and restrictions, but 3", I don't know about?

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Where you dig this up from?????

Though you might want to rethink this as I think a 3" system on your L24et will be detrimental to an 2" or 2.5". You have to have free flow in any turbo system and very nearly zero back pressure and restrictions, but 3", I don't know about?

The next Khanacross I was aiming for is the State round on May30th at Awaba near Toronto near Newcastle... but... I am also trying to get my other, undammaged MR30 ready for a Wakefield Park Supersprint on June 20th... so it very much depends how that is going whether I will go to Awaba...

I missed the first 2 rounds of the State Championship already (Overseas for the first, and had trailer problems for the second) so I am pretty much out of the running for the Champs, and I want to see how one of these will go on the track... They are good fun in a Khanacross, despite being fat and underpowered... if you get them singing they are good value...

Cheers,

Daewoo

  • 2 weeks later...
DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted (edited)

This knancross and what not is something I'm really keen to have a crack at one of these days, I have enough cars around the place I can use, I just always seem to be too busy. Building cars then fixing them all for mates none of my own cars.

Gonna have to look into it

Edited by DR JOSH

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