Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Troops,

Ive been thing of late about relocating my Trans Cooler to a more air efficient position. I installed a FMIC around November time and over the summer I did notice that the Auto shifts got abit sloppy? I figured it was due to the heat as when shes cold/cooler it shifts quite solid and nice(By my standards :D ).

I was thinking of re-locating it under the drivers side head light(I have a Dayz bar so plenty of air flow). Also I was going to add an Air Guide, I have no real argument behind the Guide, more of a 'Cause I can' thing :O .

I have heard of having 'too' much cooling and in turn not allowing the Trans fluid to heat up enough? I will be only using the Factory item as the move will literally cost $10 if that and a few hours of my time, Plus I can always upgrade later on. I figured in QLD's climate, theres no real risk of 'Over cooling'.

While Im there I'll take some pics of my Cooler set up as a few members have been interested as to how and/or what I've done. :)

All input is welcome :(

Cheers,

Aerron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313448-relocating-trans-cooler/
Share on other sites

you will lose the fan cooling when stationary, so it will be hotter in traffic, I run 2 in parallel (not series), my 2nd cooler is their but ive got a small motorcycle size fan with an 85deg thermoswitch sensor in the auto pan, as i do a lot of towing, but its only ever come on once, sitting in traffic on a 38 deg day. You could run a 2nd one there without a fan, as long as you keep factory one where it is. Also you need to cut out some slots at back to get better airflow through, as in intercooler side. I also run synthetic fluid and LUBEGARD additive.

you will lose the fan cooling when stationary, so it will be hotter in traffic, I run 2 in parallel (not series), my 2nd cooler is their but ive got a small motorcycle size fan with an 85deg thermoswitch sensor in the auto pan, as i do a lot of towing, but its only ever come on once, sitting in traffic on a 38 deg day. You could run a 2nd one there without a fan, as long as you keep factory one where it is. Also you need to cut out some slots at back to get better airflow through, as in intercooler side. I also run synthetic fluid and LUBEGARD additive.

You do have a point there, regarding standing stationary. I also thought about this. As Ive been thinking about this for a few days Ive been scoping around and I checked out how much air flow really gets 'through' the factory cooler when at a stand still with the motor at idle.

Only in my opinion, Im not 100% sure IF the fan is really drawing any air 'through' the cooler. Over and around yes, but through...? :D I also thought, maybe the air travelling 'over' the cooler might make all the difference between getting hot in traffic or not.

I had a talk with a Transmission Mech. the other day, I brought this thought up. He said the Cooler in the Bottom tank of the Rad does 70% - 80% of the cooling. He was explaining the 'Air to Air' coolers are just that, for Air flow while 'on the move'.

Regarding the 'slots'... I had previously cut a fairly big square into the inner guard linning when I upgraded the brakes. So air flow is there for the reaping

:)

My other thought ragarding 'Standing still' is, there are a few people out there that have swapped their Clutch fans for Thermo fans. On a rather efficient and clean cooling system they should only come one during a fair period of time during traffic etc. I had thermos on a previous car with an external oil cooler... rarely came on.

Sorry for the text book of reading :O Just so many opinions... :(

Edited by JDM_Spirit

Ok, Well I went ahead with relocating the cooler, figured its not a one way commiment, I can always reverse what Ive done or look at other options. Either way, I'll give this way a few weeks and see how it goes.

Heres some pics of Where it moved it to, Sort of how I did it and my cooler set up:)

You will have to ecuse the Cooler piping and make-do clamps, they're only temporary till the new ones get fab'd up in coming weeks :

Cheers

25032010546.jpg

25032010545.jpg25032010549.jpg25032010548.jpg25032010547.jpg25032010544.jpg25032010542.jpg

25032010541.jpg

25032010540.jpg

25032010539.jpg

I applaud your ingenuity! I wanted to locate mine there but was not smart enough to work out a bracket for it like you did. Instead I got a PWR 6cyl cooler and fitted that near where the original one was.

hey.. tell me if you notice that your aircon is HEAPS COLDER!

once I moved the factory cooler out I think the AC condenser gets more airflow so we noticed ours was lots cooler than it was before

Hey,

Thankyou, I get really bored sometimes lol.

Umm, I'll have to try out the A/C... Ive never thought of it. If it is I'll be stumped ;).

I'll let you know :blush:

Thanks,

Aerron

I applaud your ingenuity! I wanted to locate mine there but was not smart enough to work out a bracket for it like you did. Instead I got a PWR 6cyl cooler and fitted that near where the original one was.

hey.. tell me if you notice that your aircon is HEAPS COLDER!

once I moved the factory cooler out I think the AC condenser gets more airflow so we noticed ours was lots cooler than it was before

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...