Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r32 gts-t, thermostat housing and hose to rad are stayin cold and it seems the thermostat isnt openin,

car hasnt been runnin for about 3 months but flushed the whole system and replaced thermostat but hose still stayin cold.

could it be a water pump problem or is there an air bleed of some sort near the thermostat housing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313556-cooling-problems-gawddammit/
Share on other sites

u need the open the bleed bolt on the intake manifold....

how long do u run it for when ur testing? becoz itl take a good 10mins to heat up to operating temp if its sitting there, maybe 5 mins under road conditions.

alright il have a look for the bleed bolt,

but yeh been runnin for a good 10 to 15 mins each time, just not openin and the temp sensor is readin off the top rad hose so doesnt show the temp inside the head

If the engine is basically idling, then it isn't doing any work. And if it isn't doing any work, it won't produce any heat.

If you can, you need to take it for a drive for about 10 minutes to bring the engine up to operating temperature.

If the engine is basically idling, then it isn't doing any work. And if it isn't doing any work, it won't produce any heat.

If you can, you need to take it for a drive for about 10 minutes to bring the engine up to operating temperature.

i agree. it takes ages for an engine to come up to temp just by idling. if the car isn't registered then just do laps in and out of the garage. it will still take a while to warm up, but quicker than just idling

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...