Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No doubt, mine isn't getting pushed at all and it's starting to get right up there power vs power rating wise.

I just find it hard to imagine a larger turbo on basically the same motor set up as mine and Jez's is making almost double the power at 4000rpm and a huge extra wack of hp top end... All while being on 99 octane fuel vs Jez and myself on E85

If I thought that graph was genuine and repeatable I would have already sent an email requesting an invoice for the purchase :)

Any thoughts on how it is possible? I agree, it seems unbelieveable - but there has to be an explanation! SAE doesn't inflate numbers THAT much unless the temp sensor is somewhere silly, perhaps.

Might have to check more MGT dyno results to see if they have other numbers which seem too good to be true - they are meant to be a reputable outfit.

<edit> I think I have found a trend :(http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/176121-high-power-rb25s-mapped.html

Any thoughts on how it is possible? I agree, it seems unbelieveable - but there has to be an explanation! SAE doesn't inflate numbers THAT much unless the temp sensor is somewhere silly, perhaps.

Might have to check more MGT dyno results to see if they have other numbers which seem too good to be true - they are meant to be a reputable outfit.

<edit> I think I have found a trend :(http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/176121-high-power-rb25s-mapped.html

Lol you are everywhere when it comes to turbo results :P

Probably wont be able to get much help here but what would you guys recommend for a n1 motor with vcam?

6262 .84 twin scroll seems to be the go for a 26 but with vcam would the 6266 be the better choice with a bigger rear (1.0+).

Car sees a little track mainly for street though and will be run on e85. Ideally I'd want 450awkw+

  • 2 weeks later...

i rekon a 6266 .84 divided rear would be choice

I got that same turbo on my built 26, still have standard cams, e85 etc getting tuned Friday so I can post up a graph then, will be good to compare to all the 6262 graphs getting around

Edited by SiR_RB

Update guys, The Old girl made 350kw 15 psi 430kw 24psi, 30psi made 436kw @ 6000rpm ignition prob the splitfires arent coping plus Im thinking the exhaust maybe holding it back 3.5 inch dump pipe 3.0 inch exhaust maybe to much back pressure we will check & see whats going on. Should be up around 500 plus in my eyes gate is vented straight out with screamer pipe. Need to iron out the little bugs then hopfully see some decent numbers.

Very nice mate!


When does this all start to happen, RPM wise?


I would have to agree that 3" is too small for any part of the exhaust when reaching for those power limits.. 500kw is basically 4" TBE zone.

Didn't it make good power on pump gas? If it can made 450kw on straight pump gas then it should be able to make a fair bit more than that on E85... if it isn't then the cause is more likely to be ignition or something along those lines.

to put it straight Lithium, The 450kw was on race fuel at autosalon with to4z .82 rear 24psi, was making 430 on pump98. Just its really bugging me that it seems stuck at 400 plus. In all Honesty it should crack 500 plus @30psi one would think engine sounds great. Did a comp test evrything is good 134,134,134,135,137,134. Thinking either LS2 coils or okada what your thoughts about the situation?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...