Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've been following an eBay auction on a manual R30 (link)

It's been sitting below reserve for days after two previous listings with no bids. Same car was listed by a different seller last time.

Now all of a sudden, the bid history shows three bids from the same bidder, who has taken the price from $350 to $500.

e***f( 0 ) AU $500.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:30 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $450.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:18 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $400.00 26-Mar-10 13:16:51 AEDST

w***e( 0 ) AU $350.00 24-Mar-10 21:13:44 AEDST

I'm not bidding so this is just academic. But am I right to assume this is dodgy?

JohnH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313671-dodgy-ebay-bidding/
Share on other sites

Not necessarily dodgy. What it means is that e***f has entered a reasonably high maximum bid...of say $1000 (for example). They've become the highest bidder at $400, overtaking the previous high bid of $350. But then someone else came along and bid (for example) $440 on it, which was immediately and automatically overtaken by e***f because his maximum bid was higher than $440. Then ANOTHER user (or possibly the same one given the close timestamps) has come along and bit $490 (for example) on it, which was immediately and automatically taken over by e***f's maximum bid again.

Where it can be dodgy, is that the seller may be using another account to push e***f closer to his maximum bid. But e***f is not necessarily dodgy himself/herself.

overtaking the previous high bid of $350. But then someone else came along and bid (for example) $440 on it, which was immediately and automatically overtaken by e***f because his maximum bid was higher than $440.

So the bidding system doesn't display the intervening bids?

Seems legit...

If reserve is $500, which I think it was if it is the car I am think of, then the seller could have got a mate to bid up to $1 less than the reserve to push the price up, but probably it would have been one buy the buyer at $500 exactly... for it to have a reserve of $580 is unlikely, so it was probably 2 genuine buyers...

Cheers,

Darryl

check these ones out too:

..

ebay r30 (3)

there are more for sale now than i have ever seen in my life...

pity none are quality though!

I thought the hatch would catch your attention, with all those turbo bits and an anniversary badge! 

JH

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi,

I've been following an eBay auction on a manual R30 (link)

It's been sitting below reserve for days after two previous listings with no bids. Same car was listed by a different seller last time.

Now all of a sudden, the bid history shows three bids from the same bidder, who has taken the price from $350 to $500.

e***f( 0 ) AU $500.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:30 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $450.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:18 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $400.00 26-Mar-10 13:16:51 AEDST

w***e( 0 ) AU $350.00 24-Mar-10 21:13:44 AEDST

I'm not bidding so this is just academic. But am I right to assume this is dodgy?

JohnH

It could also mean that the seller wanted at least $500 for it, so got a mate (w***e) to bid in small increments to up the bid to $500. It doesn't help that the seller can see (for example, not saying this happened here) that e***f put in an opening bid, then added another bid in the history. That's a green light for the seller to get some shill bidding going on.

The thing with ebay is, that you have to expect that the item will sit near its starting price right up till the last few hours before it ends.

If its is bid up alot before then, then the bidders are either stupid (new ebay bidders make this mistake) and must have it and bid early, or something dodgy is going on.

If you want to win something cheaply, you try not to bid until the last minutes, otherwise your just driving the price up in the days prior and end up paying more. And if your a seller, start the item off near what you want for it.

The thing with ebay is, that you have to expect that the item will sit near its starting price right up till the last few hours before it ends.

If its is bid up alot before then, then the bidders are either stupid (new ebay bidders make this mistake) and must have it and bid early, or something dodgy is going on.

If you want to win something cheaply, you try not to bid until the last minutes, otherwise your just driving the price up in the days prior and end up paying more. And if your a seller, start the item off near what you want for it.

Hi,

Thanks very much for the info. I'd never heard the term 'shill bidding' and, being new to eBay (and also slightly stupid!), have bid way too early on items. A real life auction takes place in only a few minutes. These 5, 7 and 10 day auctions are a bit of a trap for beginners. (EBay has a help page on shill bidding here.)

JH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...